Broken crank pully bolt removal

[mdbreaux]

After setting the extractor in the end again, take a propane torch and put alot of heat around the bolt and then try again. If that does not work, take it to a machine shop.

[vrinner]

I think its time to pull the crank and take it to a machine shop. Sooo...never having done this before, I'm sure it's much easier to do with the motor out of the car, but is it doable while still in the car?

I'm going to give it one more try tomorrow night but I'm thinking it's pretty screwed up now. I've tried all of the tips on getting it out the "easy" way with no luck. Man does my back hurt.

[yeahloh]

have you tried to keep steping up the dia of the drill bits til you are at the min dia of the threads, then run a tap into it to clean out the rest , this worked for me on a broken motor mount bolt on my friends 5.0

[NavySVO]

I'm sure it's much easier to do with the motor out of the car, but is it doable while still in the car?

I can't see going through the extent of doing this with the engine in the car. You are going to have to do a bit of precision work when conducting the re-assembly portion.
I personally would not want to have to try and remove/reinstall the crankshaft from under the car, and then dealing with the K-member as an added bonus to the evolution?
There is also the issue of placing the crankshaft in place and getting bearing caps on without damaging the crank and or bearings in the process.

Just my $.02 Vince

[vrinner]

have you tried to keep steping up the dia of the drill bits til you are at the min dia of the threads, then run a tap into it to clean out the rest , this worked for me on a broken motor mount bolt on my friends 5.0

This is the point that I'm at now. There is only about 1" of the bolt in the threads.

[Pat_in_L.A.]

This is the point that I'm at now. There is only about 1" of the bolt in the threads.

What size is the hole in the bolt???

You may have a lot more easy out to play with.

The bigger the hole, the more it grabs.

[Pat_in_L.A.]

Here's what I'm thinking for Vince.

Somewhere in the race car, he has a 3/8 or 1/2 inch left hand threaded end (like on a watts link or panhard rod).

He just needs a left hand threaded tap, which may already be in his toolbox.

He could do the left hand tap procedure, and then insert the LHT rod end to remove the culprit. I know that I have a LHT 1/2 around here somewhere.

[vrinner]

Ended up drilling out and re-tapping for a larger bolt. Part of my problem was that the thread was not stock. The crank pully also fits very loose and no longer is perfectly round in the center. I'm currently looking for a new/used 87-93 2.3 serpentine crank pully.