purpose of coolant hose going to intake?

[jaidedeye]

what is the purpose of the coolant hose that runs to the lower intake? is that part of the EGR? if so can i bypass it? my lower intake gets pretty hot..makes adjusting timing painfull...lol

[THESVOTRUST]

That is to get the water back into the engine ( or out) at that point . I don't remerber the direction of flow in the field on an iPhone . But it isn't EGR as that is gas not water

Mark
P.S. If buring hand adjusting timing don't reach from windshield forward. Stand in front and turn over the alternator. There is a finger guard on it from the factory.

[jaidedeye]

That is to get the water back into the engine ( or out) at that point . I don't remerber the direction of flow in the field on an iPhone . But it isn't EGR as that is gas not water

Mark
P.S. If buring hand adjusting timing don't reach from windshield forward. Stand in front and turn over the alternator. There is a finger guard on it from the factory.

ok thanks..i know on my 5.0 fox's i always bypass the coolant lines that go to the throttle body..was just wondering if i could do the same on the svo

[Special Fred]

i know on my 5.0 fox's i always bypass the coolant lines that go to the throttle body..

And why would you do that? Those lines serve to remove heat from the EGR gases. They do not "heat up" the intake charge like every shade tree mechanic thinks that they do.

[THESVOTRUST]

ok thanks..i know on my 5.0 fox's i always bypass the coolant lines that go to the throttle body..was just wondering if i could do the same on the svo

Sorry I was ragging you !! (then I saw you were the new guy - how rude of me)

I'm sure someone (LIKE MIKE) will over explain the entire purpose of temp control for emissions......but I"m guessing you are thinking of applying backyard V8 tricks and want to know IF they will work !

EVERYTHING is controlled by the ECC IV - at that location it reads the TEMP (Converted to OHMS ) for cold start , idle and other FC parameters.
So no water there and the ECT (Coolent temp reading would be inaccurate)

Now you can install a resistor and I think that "tricks it" into thinking it is a given temp. (I used to use a 4.4K at the track I think that was around 170degrees -thus richening up under hight boosts)

Doing anything over the internet is possible BUT much info is needed up front, as to tune condition and veriables (fuel, spark etc etc) Having said that a person abilities come into play ( you get a pass on that)

SO.... reading into posts is what is left (or where we are at) ! You mentioned manifold is HOT (well if this isn't after a 4 hour ride) and I dont' think it is...I would question is it RETARDED?? Seeing you were "changing the timing" that is a good chance. BUT you usually spot that on the exhaust side (at night) where the timing is off OR THE SPOUT IS OUT !!

Both of which you don't want !! Get the car running at 10 BTDC with the spout out and then replace it.

MANY can and will help here - I am 13 hours away from installing the SCJ in my 1969 Mustang -head isn't on SVO's right now - but my guess is you could put an FE in with you eye closed ! So ask away, used the search feature - I know will will find MANY POSTS ON THE NEED FOR NEW PLUG WIRES! (90% are mine)

Mark

[jaidedeye]

And why would you do that? Those lines serve to remove heat from the EGR gases. They do not "heat up" the intake charge like every shade tree mechanic thinks that they do.

most of my EFI foxbodies i have owned have had the emissions deleted and the heads and intakes i was using didnt have EGR passages

[jaidedeye]

Sorry I was ragging you !! (then I saw you were the new guy - how rude of me)

I'm sure someone (LIKE MIKE) will over explain the entire purpose of temp control for emissions......but I"m guessing you are thinking of applying backyard V8 tricks and want to know IF they will work !

EVERYTHING is controlled by the ECC IV - at that location it reads the TEMP (Converted to OHMS ) for cold start , idle and other FC parameters.
So no water there and the ECT (Coolent temp reading would be inaccurate)

Now you can install a resistor and I think that "tricks it" into thinking it is a given temp. (I used to use a 4.4K at the track I think that was around 170degrees -thus richening up under hight boosts)

Doing anything over the internet is possible BUT much info is needed up front, as to tune condition and veriables (fuel, spark etc etc) Having said that a person abilities come into play ( you get a pass on that)

SO.... reading into posts is what is left (or where we are at) ! You mentioned manifold is HOT (well if this isn't after a 4 hour ride) and I dont' think it is...I would question is it RETARDED?? Seeing you were "changing the timing" that is a good chance. BUT you usually spot that on the exhaust side (at night) where the timing is off OR THE SPOUT IS OUT !!

Both of which you don't want !! Get the car running at 10 BTDC with the spout out and then replace it.

MANY can and will help here - I am 13 hours away from installing the SCJ in my 1969 Mustang -head isn't on SVO's right now - but my guess is you could put an FE in with you eye closed ! So ask away, used the search feature - I know will will find MANY POSTS ON THE NEED FOR NEW PLUG WIRES! (90% are mine)

Mark

thanks for the info...im trying to learn all the 2.3 info i can...being a V8 fox guy forever its like learning something all over again with the 2.3's...i use the heck out of the search in here and have already attained quite a bit of info. as far as the timing goes i put it back to 10 BTDC and the car actually runs the same..."seat of the pants" wise i thought the car pulled harder but now im convinced it didnt run any better with 13 degrees in it.

the intake manifold was hot after i had been driving for about 40 minutes..im sure it was just heat soaked but none the less it was not a pleasent surprise getting burned by it when tightening down the dizzy hold down...

[Special Fred]

most of my EFI foxbodies i have owned have had the emissions deleted and the heads and intakes i was using didnt have EGR passages

OK gotcha, makes perfect sense.

[jaidedeye]

OK gotcha, makes perfect sense.

[GAboySVO]

the intake manifold was hot after i had been driving for about 40 minutes..im sure it was just heat soaked but none the less it was not a pleasent surprise getting burned by it when tightening down the dizzy hold down..

Get yourself a 10mm socket head cap screw to replace the dizzy hold down bolt, then use a t-handle allen wrench or a allen socket to loosen/tighten. no need to get close to the intake.

If the TFI is rotated to close to the lower intake, then place the engine at TDC, remove the dizzy and rotate it 1 tooth forward to relocate the TFI towards the alternator.

[THESVOTRUST]

If the TFI is rotated to close to the lower intake, then place the engine at TDC, remove the dizzy and rotate it 1 tooth forward to relocate the TFI towards the alternator.

Then call me when you get it really messed up !

Mark

[GAboySVO]

Then call me when you get it really messed up !

Mark

No need to call you, I've done it many times without issue.