Oil at idle, but nowhere else

[fiveohmike]

Hey Guys,

Just got the car running after the FMIC install. Havent touched the exhaust yet.

Well my car used to smoke under boost because of a cracked drain line.

I replaced it with the Stinger drain line and now I have a wierd problem. I am smoking (oil smoke) at idel, but not if i hold at a steady rev. I havent driven it just in case, but im about to pull the drain line off again.

Can a drain line cause oil burn at idle?

[GAboySVO]

Can a drain line cause oil burn at idle?

Yes.

[caroth]

Do you still have the factory drain line? If so, install it.

[fiveohmike]

Ya, I am in the process of putting the stock one back in to see if its still burning oil at idle.

If so I guess Ill just get a stock replacement.

I checked the stinger line and its completely clear, no blockage, and no kink when installed. I got recommendations from a lot of people to use it as well.

./sigh getting tired of taking it on and off lol

[Horsewidower]

You might be burning off any residual oil in the IC and related charge lines.

[fiveohmike]

You might be burning off any residual oil in the IC and related charge lines.

Ya I think I found the issue, but Have no idea how to correct it.

I am waiting for a response from Stinger, but nothing yet:

Any ideas?

[thomp22]

Get a good used factory return line. Just compare the stock line inside diameter to the stinger one. The stock one is much larger. I couldn't get the stinger line to work for me either, smoked like a fogger. I use it's paperweight application...

[caroth]

That drain line is too small, install the stocker.

[Meotchh]

The stock line is almost the size of a -10 line with minimal transitions. That line looks much smaller in diameter & looks to have 7 transitions between fittings & crimped connections. I would have returned that line before even thinking about installing it.

[fiveohmike]

I am going the route of fabricating my own out of braided line and AN fittings. Will most likely be -10 with minimal transitions (just 2 45 degree elbows)

[Erics SVO]

IIRC you're not the first (or last) person to have that issue with it.

[Meotchh]

I am going the route of fabricating my own out of braided line and AN fittings. Will most likely be -10 with minimal transitions (just 2 45 degree elbows)

If you are going to go that route you will need the flange for the turbo. They are available through Precision & I believe I saw one in the catalog for Russell plumbing? Might be available through other sources as well...

[caroth]

I am going the route of fabricating my own out of braided line and AN fittings. Will most likely be -10 with minimal transitions (just 2 45 degree elbows)

Good luck with fabricating the hose, been there and tried that. With the size of the fittings, there isn't enough room to get any hose in there for a flexible connection. Install the factory hose.

[GAboySVO]

Here is what I did with high-temp silicone hose and fittings from ATPturbo. I used an extension spring of the correct diameter to slide inside the 5/8" hose to keep it from kinking. What is not shown here is a heat shield that was added later to protect against heat from manifold that I got from Summit. The hose needs to be 8" long.


The hose can be installed with the turbo and turbo support bracket in place.

[Meotchh]

Here is what I did with high-temp silicone hose and fittings from ATPturbo. I used an extension spring of the correct diameter to slide inside the 5/8" hose to keep it from kinking. What is not shown here is a heat shield that was added later to protect against heat from manifold that I got from Summit. The hose needs to be 8" long.


The hose can be installed with the turbo and turbo support bracket in place.

NICE! Low budget & easy to assemble. Though it looks to good to be on the road warrior.