Ranger cam and PE swap now car wont start

[fstbk65]

I finally got around to installing my brown tops while I had the upper intake off for my Ranger roller swap (new seals too). Installed the PE I picked up at the reunion last year too. Now the car acts like it wants to start but won't. I didn't see in any searches that I needed to do anything (pin swapping) with a PE into my 84. Am I wrong and missed something? The cam has a Racer Walsh pulley on it now also but everyting is set straight up still. I haven't installed my Gillis valve yet but was under the impression that it should still work but only expect about 10# of boost. Still haven't found out why the fuel switch won't work with the swap though.

Could the valves not be opening enough due to the HLA's not being pumped up yet? Therefore not letting the fuel/air in or what? The car ran fine before and has about 60k miles.

[svobud]

Sounds like the timing isnt correct.

[fstbk65]

I set the crank to TDC on #1. The rotor was pointed at #1 wire and the cam pulley mark hit the center rib pointer. Where would I have gone wrong?

There is no hint of back fire either. Sounds like slight puttering kinda.

[Bruce]

I would suggest the string method. It always works for me. Also you said you had the intake off, a vacume leak could be your problem! I had underdrive pulleys at one point and TDC on the UD pulley scale wasn't TDC. That one messed with my head for a while.

[kiwi]

Run the crank another rotation and try #1 again.

[SVOeric]

one trick I use (2 person job tho) while someone is in the car cranking, I take the distributor, and turn it to adjust the ignition timing.

[fstbk65]

I would suggest the string method. It always works for me. Also you said you had the intake off, a vacume leak could be your problem! I had underdrive pulleys at one point and TDC on the UD pulley scale wasn't TDC. That one messed with my head for a while.

I've got new gaskets on everything I took off and I'm using the original balancer and crank pulley. They never even came off the car.

But what is the "string method"? I haven't seen that.

[fstbk65]

one trick I use (2 person job tho) while someone is in the car cranking, I take the distributor, and turn it to adjust the ignition timing.

I never moved the distributor and marked all the wires before I pulled them. I thought about doing this but it didn't make since to move something that never changed to me. Would doing so tell me if my cam was set right though?

[SVOeric]

you replaced the cam... I'd bet the aux shaft turned at least one tooth.

The string method is to run a string from the aux shaft center, to the cam center. That marks the spot where the cam timing mark should be.

http://www.svoca.com/forum/showpost.php?p=78306&postcount=29

[fstbk65]

you replaced the cam... I'd bet the aux shaft turned at least one tooth.

The string method is to run a string from the aux shaft center, to the cam center. That marks the spot where the cam timing mark should be.
http://www.svoca.com/forum/showpost....6&postcount=29

Ah ha!I bet you are right. I didn't think of keeping that still. I'm used to V-8's sorry.

[fstbk65]

Is there a mark on the aux gear that has to align also?

[SVOeric]

no... the aux gear just needs to get turned. Back in the day of mechanical fuel pumps, there was a mark to align, but these don't need to align anywhere.
Just make sure the rotor points to #1.

[fstbk65]

Ok, I'll give it another shot tonight and post results.

[fstbk65]

Ok my cam pulley checked out to be perfect with the string method but the aux gear had moved a tooth so the distributor was to far retarded. It's timed and running good now.

Thanks guys.