Installing the dip stick tube

[gbeaird]

I've read the' removing the dipstick tube' posts, but I'm just wondering about the installation. IIRC, the last time I had to do this was with the head gasket replacement, and I just zip-tied it to a bracket on the intake with no issues. I want to make sure this is at least a viable option.

When looking at the tube down where it goes into the engine block, it looks like there's a rib there that looks like it might set on the boss on the block. It's about 3/4" to 1" above the boss on the block where the tube enters the block. I cannot, however, tap the tube in any further than it is. Looking at pictures posted with tubes for sale, it looks like there's at least 2 such ribs, and possibly 3.

Does the tube really just sit on the boss on the block and is NOT a press-in sort of piece? If so, I'll just re-zip-tie it to the same bracket, as I'm not seeing any bracket on the tube that will allow bolting it to anything. Do I need to pull it out and throw an 0-ring on it before reinstalling the tube? Thanks.

[rickshaw]

So there are two ribs on my tube. 1st should just rest on the block. See photo. Think I used some black RTV to seal. Took me awhile to wiggle it in. Think initially my tube was bent so removed once to straighten. Just check before installing

[Corrugated]

I installed an o-ring just as an extra precaution...

[gbeaird]

I installed an o-ring just as an extra precaution...

That's probably what I'll do. I don't think it leaked at all, or maybe very minimally, when we autocrossed the car, but the oil pan is 'damp'. Thanks, all!

[scenario]

I am getting all the cobwebs out of my 85.5 because it was off the road and stored from 2002-2022 (yes 20 yrs). I have put maybe 200 miles on it and I have had a number of expected leaks form old seals. Valve cover, transmission output shaft seal, rear end input seal just to name a few...
Now, I still have a motor oil leak in addition to the valve cover gasket at the dipstick tube...

I come to find that the dipstick tube is loose in the boss that it sits in. Just ever so slightly but none the less... loose! I removed the tube and put a cylindrical and conical drift and tapped it in to expand the end to make it fit more snug. I also added a wee bit of ultra rtv black to seal it up good.

I will say that this is a low mile SVO (45K original miles) but the dipstick tube is very "extra" clean and I am not sure if it is original or not. I think it is but there is no Ford stamping or part number on it. The only marking is a "JP" logo stamped on it. I compared it to my 86 and they look identical and the same marking apprears to be on it, although I do not have a great vantage point to look at it with it installed on the 86. It was enough loose to be suspect but who knows...

I compare everything to my 86 so I have a good reference for comparison for things like this

Just weird in my opinion. This 85.5 is a low mile example with very weird history from the assembline on day one... Lots of layers to this onion and its history.

[SVOeric]

the o-ring is the way to go. I've done it on more than one SVO.

The layers of history are the reason we created the registry!! -- people could even enter oil changes in there! but having modifications, and ideas behind things, etc.. it would all be date-stamped and documented. Wouldn't that be nice to have!

[scenario]

The "O-RIng"

The O-ring you guys are talking about would sit at the base of the block where the 1st rib of the dipstick tube rests. Therefore preventing oil from leaking from the area (in lieu of using black rtv or equivalent)???

On another note, I have stopped the leak via what I posted above but I did notice an ever so minute amount of oil working its way from the top of the dipstick tube when I ran it hard making full boost. I was not much but it was present.
I ordered a NOS PCV valve to see if that might be allowing the boost to over pressure thru the block...

Any thoughts...

[SVOeric]

NOS PCV's aren't that easy to find, hope you get a real one.

yes, o-ring sits at the bottom ring, a lot of people actually put 2, so there is a bit more of a barrier.

I just don't like using RTV, as it gets in places it shouldn't!

my advice to you, if the PCV is allowing too much oil through, and is working as it should, rings allowing too much through is the major answer...
you can try a catch can as a stop-gap.

[scenario]

The PCV valve I got is stamped "Motorcraft" and black and says E127 and came in the Motorcraft box. I have to think it is legit. It feels like quality made and came with 2 rubber plugs and an "F" fitting adapter thing.. The one is the car is gray but has the same number.

I will see how it is after I install the new piece. It is already a night and day difference with just securing the dipstick tube properly. I did not allow any rtv to enter the block and was sparingly when I applied it.

Thanks

[Corrugated]

NOS PCV's aren't that easy to find, hope you get a real one.

yes, o-ring sits at the bottom ring, a lot of people actually put 2, so there is a bit more of a barrier.

I just don't like using RTV, as it gets in places it shouldn't!

my advice to you, if the PCV is allowing too much oil through, and is working as it should, rings allowing too much through is the major answer...
you can try a catch can as a stop-gap.

A secondary, inline check valve will help with oil / crankcase pressures as well... Install just after the PCV..

[SVOeric]

hum, a second check-valve, just in case the first one don't work ? -- typically I'd just make sure the first one works.

[Corrugated]

hum, a second check-valve, just in case the first one don't work ? -- typically I'd just make sure the first one works.

Try it you'd be surprised. It worked for me.

[SVOeric]

no, I get it, if the first valve is not working, adding a second would for sure help.

[Corrugated]

Obviously if crankcase pressure is too high, a worn engine and or larger capacity breather system would need to be considered, but the secondary check valve can and has worked for many as well. There is also an adjustable PCV that is out there as well, which may work well for these engines and their crankcase issues too...

[SVOeric]

I think that's the direction I would go. just the way my brain works-- why use 2, when 1 should work.
that said, I DO have a catch can on one of my cars, but I've never needed more on the pcv side.