Finished my Water/Meth Injection install

[rickshaw]

I've had good experience previously adding a system to a t/c car that I wanted to do this on my SVO with the stock IC setup. Mainly wanted to keep this discrete, so used the washer reservoir and mounted the pump below it. The red color supply hose is what stands out, so I will get a black one later on. Red came with the kit from Snow Performance. Previously I used a system from Banks but they don't offer it now. Cross shopped Snow with AEM, which I use for my WBO2. Decided I liked to have the pod mount controller with boost pressure gage from Snow (kit SNO-210-T without tank). Wasn't certain at first where to locate the injector but determined I could fit it to the throttle body. Initially I'm just using the 4gal/hr nozzle with stock 14psi boost. Seat of the pants testing detects a noticeably smoother power application. Previously I had impression the knock sensor was reacting and backing out advance as boost spiked and then re-advanced it again, but maybe less because of the knock threshold. Will test again tomorrow when temps are getting into the mid 90s. Eventually I will increase the boost pressure and nozzle size. Want to put this on a chassis dyno some time soon to record some data and do some tuning. If I get that far, will post those results. Ps, I wired the system to only run with the premium fuel switch on so it's not constantly sucking on the reservoir. Spliced a wire from that switch to a relay I mounted next to fan control module and next to fuse panel. See following photos and captions

Underhood view. Will be replacing that red supply hose! Waiting on some compression fittings to add Snow supplied check valve, these weren't included with kit. Left hose long intentionally, figured I can shorten it later.

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Injector position on t/b. Drill and tap for 1/8NPT. Call it minimally invasive! Used my heat gun to shape hose slightly

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Injector inside t/b at 1 o'clock

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Had to modify pump mounting bracket with hose clamps to rotate pump inlet/outlet 180 deg. Could have drilled and tapped two new screw holes on opposite side but didn't want to cause issue with any pump warranty later.

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Pump mounted to frame rail. L-shaped brackets brace from behind. Horn remounted to radiator support frame. Injection hose runs up and out hole for reservoir fill.

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Reservoir modified for supply hose and WM level sensor. It holds close to 3 quarts which is what Snow's standard reservoir holds. They have an optional trunk mounted 5 gallon reservoir kit also.

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Controller mounted in gage pod for easy adjustment. Digital display for boost pressure as well. Will get a photo with gage on later

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Disadvantage of Snow controller is it's hard wired instead of having connectors like my AEM WBO2, which is shortsighted, IMHO. Something I'm going to recommend they change. So I modified my controller with spade connectors although a Molex connector would be cleaner, provided it can carry 20a load. This controller had the internal boost sensor. Kit is also offered with remote sensor so there are just wires and not the hose to connect.


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Have plenty more photos of details if someone gets into this project and needs tips. Snow's instructions leave out some details. Incidentally, Snow US website is NitrousExpress.com and not SnowPerformance, otherwise you will get the UK website.

[Bruce]

So how does it work. What are the advantages to it? Looks like you did a really clean install!

[rickshaw]

Basically you get a substantial cooling of the intake charge because of the vaporization of the injected water and methanol mixture (50/50). Also known as latent heat of vaporization. Snow Performance would claim that this provides an increase in octane to 116, not sure which octane rating they are using. Anyway, because the 2.3L OHC combustion is very knock limited, meaning spark advance has to be retarded to avoid knock/detonations conditions depending on such factors as the fuel quality (octane), intake charge temperatures and boost level, this provides a nice gain, and works without going to a FMIC (but will also work with this). As you are aware the SVO fuel switch reduces boost levels to 8-10psi so that lower octane fuel can be used. Conversely, with the fuel switch enabled, it increases to around 14psi and I believe the ECU also references a spark map with more advanced settings. There is also the knock sensor which will respond to reduce the spark advance/boost during transient conditions (some transient over boost is allowed) and as ambient or running conditions change, like things getting hotter. The WMI allows running higher boost levels and the intended spark advance calibration without encountering knock, but obviously there is an upper limit to how much boost can be increased. I have injection start at 5psi and end at 15psi, and it is powered on by the fuel switch via relay. Currently I'm using the 4 gal/hour injector nozzle since this is recommended for up to 250hp and 15psi. If you want to see more about this system, go to NitrousExpress.com. I recently just added a solenoid valve to bypass the boost control valve and it bumps up to around 18psi. I have this switched separately under the dash when I want to have fun. So I now have three boost levels to select. Probably I can size up the 5gal/hr injector now.

nozzle_selection_guide.jpg https://www.svoca.com/forum/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw== Inkedboost solenoid.jpg