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My 55k mile stock '86 needs an oil change. I like Mobil 1 and have used it very successfully since the '80s, but I am open to other suggestions. Particularly as relates to engine longevity and leaks prevention. Not too interested in moving off manufacturer's recommendations viscosity.
Boy, this can be a can-o-worms. I am still using 10W-30 myself with ~130K on the clock FWIW. I have been using Castrol GTX High-Mileage for many years now. I prefer the high-mileage type oil for the additional zinc content. I have been running a roller cam for many moons now, so I am not concerned about wear up top, but more on the crank/con-rods. YMMV.
The cheap oil today is better than the oil from the 1980's. Added zinc is always a plus. Fresh oil is always the better for your engine than long lapses between oil changes. Do not run engine hard until the oil is at "operating temperature"...This has worked for me
Boy, this can be a can-o-worms. I am still using 10W-30 myself with ~130K on the clock FWIW. I have been using Castrol GTX High-Mileage for many years now. I prefer the high-mileage type oil for the additional zinc content. I have been running a roller cam for many moons now, so I am not concerned about wear up top, but more on the crank/con-rods. YMMV.
You are definitely on the right track...
I realize oil is heavily debated, but after working in auto industry for 40 years and as an old car hobbyist this is what I have learned (in short)...
Older engines before 1990 and/or pre-1975 catalytic convertor era with flat tappet cams and high performance flat tappet cams need higher levels of phosphorus/zinc (1200/1400 ppm) so popular oil choices are Penn Grade 1 (PA green oil previously known as Brad Penn and Kendall GT1) or Valvoline VR1. But those 1200/1400 levels are too high/harmful for catalytic convertors and overkill for 80's High Output flat tappet camshafts like the SVO 2.3, or Fiero GT 2.8 V6, or pre-85 non-roller Mustang 5.0, so they are not a good fit. Many people use popular modern parts-store brands/synthetics which is also not a good fit for those 80's flat tappet cams because the phosphorus/zinc levels are too low. So what is the solution? Adding zinc additive? Nope, that's a chemistry nightmare.
I use Valvoline Max-Life "High-Mileage" 10w30 Synthetic/Dino Blend in those engines because its the only one I found that checks all the boxes...
1. It has proper balanced higher phosphorus/zinc (600/800) ideal for 80's flat tappet cams with catalytic convertors
2. Many of these original engines are almost 40 years, so I don't like to switch to full synthetic because it might trigger seal leaks (not a myth)
3. The high-mileage formula has conditioners for seals, so its not to be taken literally, its also good for old engines with lower miles
4. 10w30 is better than 5w30 and 10w40 because it has less viscosity improvers and better high temperature high shear (HTHS)
Most of these 80's cars are fair-weather weekend hobby cars nowadays, not daily drivers that see winter use, so 10w30 is good down to 0F on cold start.
Note the Valvoline "high-mileage" and "syn/dino blend" is a unique combo because its the only one that has those specific levels and all the other benefits.
SVO9 & scenario, thanx much for your detailed inputs, that is greatly appreciated having a somewhat 'inside' viewpoint. I know a lot of that info is out there, but usually it is mixed down deep in the 'this is the only oil you should use' arguments on various forums.
Motor oil of today is much different than back when our cars were made, that is for sure. The oil specified for my MINI is the kind of stuff you have to scratch your head about, but I do follow that recommended oil along with less than the oil life monitor says I should change it...only because I plan on keeping the car much longer than a typical MINI owner does.
I remember my Dad had an F-150 work truck with the 4.9L straight six back in the day. A friend of his who owned a repair shop did some work and an oil change on it. Thought he would do us a favor by putting in some synthetic Mobil 1. Well, that oil was not compatible with the seals on the 4.9L and it slung virtually all the oil out the crank seals on both ends on the trip home from the shop and it seized the engine due to lack of oil that was slung everywhere.
I was using Quaker State Ultimate Durability but they apparently stopped making it. So this spring I switched to Ford hybrid that I have to run in my truck. I figured I had had enough of 3 different brands and half full bottles around.
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