What's This For

[notopstang]

Kragen (or checker, shucks, or advanced auto) have GP Sorensen part TSU145 which I believe is the 2 conductor fan switch for later SVOs. This should be the same as Standard Motor Products part #TS-236 and Wells part #SW574.

Depending on what manufacturer your local parts store carries, I've got a few other cross references for part #s if you need them, as well as a whole list of #s for the single conductor switch.

--Javier

[Otto Man]

Thanks
But the Advanced part broke as I attempted to plug it!
This is a huge piss-off as I have to drain my system AGAIN.
I am getting a bit tired of this. Beware and be careful of parts stores. I know they have the part but be gentile!
Chris

[notopstang]

you're right...we are having to do the same things!! After I installed my switch, my fans still don't come on and my temp guage barely moves...and I know the coolant is getting hot... so I'll probably have to drain the coolant again also and see what's up...

the fans work fine b/c if I ground the connector, the fans come on, but the switch just doesn't turn them on. when they were connected to the guage sender, they would come on, so I'm not sure what's going on. My guess is that I have little to no coolant flow down there where both the switch and guage sender are installed...

too bad we don't live closer to each other, we could help each other alot!

good luck
--Javier

[Pro-Hawk]

Originally posted by notopstang
you're right...we are having to do the same things!! After I installed my switch, my fans still don't come on and my temp guage barely moves...and I know the coolant is getting hot... so I'll probably have to drain the coolant again also and see what's up...

the fans work fine b/c if I ground the connector, the fans come on which it did, but the switch just doesn't turn them on. when they were connected to the guage sender, they would come on, so I'm not sure what's going on. My guess is that I have little to no coolant flow down there where both the switch and guage sender are installed...

too bad we don't live closer to each other, we could help each other alot!

good luck
--Javier

My car does the same thing I have grounded the connector to make sure my fan works but it never comes on. My temp gauage moves a hair but only after I put a new TS in it. There was a time when the Radiator shop said it got way up pass 200 when they was testing the three core they installed and flushed the system out. I have never seen it do this and I drove it all over Texas. I just drove it to the TurboMustang shoot out last month in San Antoino thats 320 miles from me and NP and the temp gauage never moved. Should I replace this switch also or is there something else to check out ?

[notopstang]

Originally posted by Pro-Hawk
My car does the same thing I have grounded the connector to make sure my fan works but it never comes on.

If grounding it doesn't turn them on, (w/KOEO) then that means the relay or the fan motor is no good, or maybe the the fan switch wire itself is disconnected from the relay. if turning on the A/C turns on the fans, then the relay and motor are ok. if not, then one or both is bad. Check for continuity from the end of the wire to the relay and fan motor.

As for the temp guage, I'm not sure...but that's what I'm planning on figuring out w/mine. could be a flow problem, or maybe the sender is bad. I'm gonna pull mine out, drop it in some boiling water and see what it reads. I'm also gonna check to make sure the sensor itsellf is grounded well enough.. Maybe I put too much thread sealant on preventing a good connection??? I'm just grasping...

Grounding this wire should peg the temp guage pretty quickly, so make sure that's working properly as well..

lemme know if you figure anything out.

--Javier

[Pro-Hawk]

I can cut the fan on by pulling the wire and grounding it out. As for A/C mine is not charged so I can't cut it on unless it comes on when you flip the A/C switch automaticaly ?

[notopstang]

as long as the fan turns on when the connector is grounded, then there's no need for the A/C test b/c it means the relay and fan motor are good.

What temp is the switch supposed to turn on the fans???

I'd try the hot/boiling water test next and see if the switch closes at the right temp.

Another thing w/the guage sender is to make sure you got the right one. Supposedly merks used one that looks the same but the have a different resistence (from turboford.org). But the autoparts store lists the same one for SVOs and Merks...so ?!?!?

Anyone know what the correct one should be? how much resistence should it have?

[Pro-Hawk]

Is the temp of the fans set by the Thermostat? if so I got a 195 in it now. Other than that I have no clue

Now do I drain the radiator some and pull the sensor where my fan wire plugs to on the underside of the lower intake ? Once I do this I just put the switch in some boiling water and see if its clicks? Also do you use a thomometer to measure the boiling water so that its at the temp to open the sensor or just see if it ever opens ?

Thanks

[Otto Man]

The fan sensor switch (down under near oil cooler on my 85.5) switches the fan on at around 220 degrees. Many of our SVO's guages go up to the "A" in NORMAL, then the fan comes on and temp "reading" drops a bit.
It is also possible that your new thermostat is bad. If you put the thermostat in backward it may cause problems as well, but I'm pretty sure you cannot put them in backwards because of clearance with the housing.
Water boils at 212 normally, (depends on barometric pressure) so puting the sensor in boiling water for a test may not do anything. As I said earlier if you want a Ford fan sensor (like me)your gonna have to hunt around.
I do notice that my manual says to be careful you rotate the thermosat until the heater tube is unobstructed. But that would be a overheating thing.
Chris

[Pro-Hawk]

I guess I need to hunt a sensor down also or run a fan switch. My gauage only gets no higher than the "O" on normal ( that is only when the car is warmed up a little; like left idleing a few mins then drove a mile or two) etc one time the radiator shop said it got 200 and no fan (which I pretty sure they took it out and ran it hard). I never seen it do this and I drove it 100 plus miles with a hole in the radiator, and 760 miles round trip with the new radiator. Is a sensor, fan, gauage, and juice all there is to this system. I mean if I replaced the sensor and I know tha fan works then its got to be the gauage ?

Its really rough to install the TS the right way on my car let alone the wrong way I actually bent a new one up trying to get it in enough to clear the heater tube, now I have a fire breathing heater

Thanks for your help.

[Otto Man]

The one thing you may have overlooked is.......

You may be the ONLY owner of an SVO that has an accurate guage!
My Explorer, with a new, working thermostat, NEVER gets up to just a bit above the C. With the bad thermostat the needle never moved, and I got OK heat, not great.

Are you getting good, hot hot air from your heater? If so, you may be normal and not having any problems at all.
The computer temp sensor (in my 85.5 intake manifold) is the most important one when it comes to the engine running right. It tells the computer the temp and the computer tells everything else how to adjust for the hot or cold (kind of like a choke on your old Chevy). The fan sensor does one thing, fan turn on at 220. The guage temp sensor just tells the little needle where to go. God only knows if the guage is accurate! email him!
Chris
There is a similar discussion going on over in a COOLING post.

[Pro-Hawk]

You maybe right, my car don't show any signs of a problem, not even a heat code. I had one before the TS, but since I changed it no more heat related code. My heater works way better now, all though it really looked like the old TS was good but it was blocking the heater tube.

Thanks for you imput

[notopstang]

what about adding a little coolant to the water being heated?!? not sure I'd really want to do that to a pot I'm going to use again, but just an idea. hmmmm... maybe I can figure out another way to do it.

Wonder if I put in the thermostat wrong to block the passage??? One of the things I thought might be wrong was bad flow through the tubes feeding the oil cooler which is where my sensors are.

Chris, isn't the sensor in the block the guage sender and not the fan switch on 85.5/86s??? With the fan switch on the underside of the intake?

[Otto Man]

I'm not a chemist so I don't know. You really need to up the barometric pressure in your kitchen to raise the boiling point of coolant.

Yes and Yes to sensor locations and types.
See attached illustartion.