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  • Cooling fan wiring repair

    I just thought that I would share my cooling fan repair experience. This information may or may not have been disseminated before but I do know that it took a significant amount of research and a little luck to figure it out.

    For those of you who don't know this, your fan controller connector is overheating if you haven't upgraded to the higher capacity connector supplied by Ford. It is just a matter of time before the connection fails and your fan stops working. For those of you that have jumpered your fan to run constantly, it will happen sooner.

    First, the correct part number for a new controller is E4ZZ-8B658-B (Motorcraft P/N RR-10). This is an obsolete part but some are available from various Ford dealerships around the country. There is another post somewhere that shows this part as containing the new wiring upgrade kit. MINE DID NOT HAVE IT!! In fact, the part number of the controller was different than the one on the box but according to the engineering revision information it is interchangeable with the orginal. Before you order a fan controller conduct the following:

    Locate the controller. It is underneath the steering column just a little towards the door. You will have to shoehorn yourself into the footwell to see it. It is a black box about 3 inches wide with a silver bracket bolting it to one of the dash supports. It will have a beige/gray 8-pin connector with 6 wires going into it. Pull the connector off and look at the connections to see if one is melted. Mine was, 2nd from the right. The connections as viewed from left to right(clip down) are 12VDC (Ignition), Blank, AC (maybe), Fan supply,I have no idea, Blank, 12VDC (Battery) and Temp switch. The battery connection is the common failure point. If it is melted you will need the wiring kit from Ford. It is part number E4FZ-8C290-A. This is applicable to the 83-89 Mustang. Once again it is obsolete but about a dozen are still available from the Ford parts network which is accessible from any Ford parts department. This kit costs about 50 bucks and contains two connectors and 5 new connectors. I don't know why it only has 5 of them. The priority connector to replace are the 12 VDC connections. The connectors are crimp on, just cut off the old connector and put the new one on.

    Test your fan and controller. Find the temp control switch. It is located on the bottom of the lower intake manifold right in the center towards the engine. It has a single wire going onto a threaded post. Take the connector off and ground it with the ignition on. Your fan should start. If not, then you need to check the continuity of the wiring. I used jumpers to the ground of the battery and a meter at the plug under the dash. For example, ground one wire of the fan and check the fan supply pin on the connector to ground, be sure to check it grounded then immediately ungrounded to ensure that the ground goes away and comes back consistently. If the wiring looks good then you probably need a controller, which also costs about 50 bucks.

    I hope that this is of some help to those of you with fan problems. Just for your information, I was unable to find a wiring diagram for this system. There may be one in the detailed drawings available online but I just poked around until I figured it out. Good luck!

  • #2
    Good info. One thing you can do to avoid burning it up is put a relay in. I bought a Bosch heavy duty relay, not the little cube one, and wired it up so the plug at the fan controls the relay. I ran a wire from the solenoid to the relay then to the fan. Now there is just a couple of amps going through the controller. BTW, I am running a Contour fan which will pull alot more amps. I did not cut any wires on the car, I used spade connectors on the fan and plug.

    Bud
    86 2A Bi-wing delete
    90 LX
    95 Lightning

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    • #3
      Hello Coulomb67,

      I have your business card on my desk at home. I met you at the SD Mustang club show. I remember you nice 84 1C from the show. My freind Phil, also online here, had the 86 4E CP car. I was there with my 5.0.

      The information you posted is great but I still do not trust the current handling capability of the temp / fan switch. 90lx86svo's method is the way to go. Takes the load off the switch inside the cabine & lets the relay do the work.

      The other known electrical issues are the headlight swtich (overheating/poor current capability) and the alternator connector & wiring harness (same current issue).

      Hope to see around here more often!!
      -Mike Malone (svoca #416)
      84 9W / 85.5 9L / 86 2A

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      • #4
        BTW, I have remote relays on the headlights, driving lights and the fan.
        86 2A Bi-wing delete
        90 LX
        95 Lightning

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        • #5
          Does anyone know the current (amps) draw of the fan??
          86 SVO 1C

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          • #6
            The Mark VIII fan on my LX pulls 22A continuous, 80A at start up. My Contour fan on my SVO is around 18A. I would think the stock fan (undersized that it is) is around 13-15A.

            Bud
            86 2A Bi-wing delete
            90 LX
            95 Lightning

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            • #7
              Bud,

              What year Mark VIII fan are you using?
              1986 1D - An oil return and rear end away from FINALLY being fully streetable again!
              2007 Mazda3 2.3L 5 Speed hatch

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              • #8
                Originally posted by SVOBart
                Bud,

                What year Mark VIII fan are you using?
                I think it is a 1998 fan. The early ones are 2 speed and the 1998 is a single speed. I have a contour fan on my SVO and the temp never goes above the R with the A/C on.

                Bud
                86 2A Bi-wing delete
                90 LX
                95 Lightning

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                • #9
                  Thanks...I'm going to scour the local junkyards in search of a better and slimmer fan. I've heard that both pull a decent amount of air, even enough to keep modded V8s cool.
                  1986 1D - An oil return and rear end away from FINALLY being fully streetable again!
                  2007 Mazda3 2.3L 5 Speed hatch

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                  • #10
                    FYI Some of the Contour fans were recalled about 4 years ago. I don't recall the problem but my 95 got a new one. Mine just died, no fried wiring.
                    84 SVO 1 owner, 02 S.Crew, 69 Mustang, 85 McLaren

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                    • #11
                      One of the main reasons I don't drive my SVO on hot days is because the fan doesn't work, even with the AC on, and I'm afraid of getting stuck in traffic and overheating. I ran power to the fan to test it and it turned, so I assume the box is fried.

                      If I replace it, how do I hook up the relay to protect the new box from getting fried? I'm electrically-challenged, so precise directions (or even a picture) would help. Thanks!
                      Stephanie
                      1974 Mustang II Mach I (swapping in a 2.3L Turbo from a TC)
                      1984 SVO - Black (sold)

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                      • #12
                        I drew up a little line diagram a few months ago showing how to connect a relay to the fan. Do a search under my user name for a fan controller relay and you'll probably run across it.
                        1986 1D - An oil return and rear end away from FINALLY being fully streetable again!
                        2007 Mazda3 2.3L 5 Speed hatch

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          cooling fan repair

                          the E4ZZ number crosses to a motor craft # RR-10. this also is an obselete # but my local mercury dealer was able to find one on line. auto air,1-800-233-5695
                          also the E4FZ number is available on line. collectors auto supply,
                          1-800-414-4462.
                          i hope this helps.
                          bob

                          you cant run with the big dogs if you pee like a puppy

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