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K-Member Removal Question?

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  • K-Member Removal Question?

    A search didn't turn up too much on point here so here goes...

    Not sure where to post this, since it's both engine and suspension, but my girlfriend's kid is working on the Project Bondo car (84 9W) since I haven't the time for it and he wants a project and the car has some rather significant frame repair to perform under the pass shock tower (let me translate.....Northern rust repair due to too much frickin salt dumped on the roads in winter). The frame, it appeard has collapsed due to rust thru and allowed the K-member to squish upwards about 1/2". The rust is confined to the area under the shock tower (about 10" long) as it appears that sand and wet crap collected on the frame lip behind the strut and was never washed out. Apparently the previous owners of this car did nothing in the PM department. I never noticed this as the car seemed to sit fairly level. In any event, the two forward bolts holding the K member to the frame have nearly rusted thru and without any rigid frame support to keep the k-member in plane and horizontal, it crushed up into the rusted frame.

    This car may be a forgone conclusion, but we're going to try to save it. Now the questions:

    1) has anyone seen rust in this location to the same extent? I would have posted a pic but forgot to get it. I probably will tonight. If so, how did you repair it?

    2)Is there any trick to getting the K-member forward bolts out. We got the back ones (down by the subframe) out but even with a massive amount of heat on the captive nuts behind the strut, the suckers will not budge. Is there some sort of spacer inside the frame that keeps the frame from crushing up when you torque down the K-member and could those spacers be rusted to the bolts, effectively freezing everything up?

    Just need some guidance.

    Thanks guys and girls.
    86' 2R Original Owner "Project Originale"; 86' 2R "Project Bolo" 84' 9W "Project Bondo"; 86 2R "Project Evil" (GONE!); 90' 5.0 LX Vert; 98 Dodge Neon ACR Track Car; 05 SRT-4 ACR! ---"Real tomato ketchup Eddie?"

  • #2
    I would just twist them off or cut them off, you will not be able to reuse any of it anyway. There is not a sleeve in the frame, just holes. You should be able to find usable bolts and nuts from just about any fox body.
    86 2A Bi-wing delete
    90 LX
    95 Lightning

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    • #3
      I'm not sure if space permits but I think if you can grind off the heads of the bolts from the underside you can pull whats left back up through the shock tower / recessed area?

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      • #4
        Thanks..What about rust?

        Thanks Bud, that helps a lot knowing what's in there.

        Ken, not a bad idea on torching the bolt heads, then the K-Member would drop down and then I could extract the studs later.
        (Your alternator and injectors went off yesterday FYI. Thanks again!!!)

        Has anyone repaired the kind of rust I speak of on that frame rail? Is it worth it, or does the geometry get so messed up that you'll never get the car back together right?
        86' 2R Original Owner "Project Originale"; 86' 2R "Project Bolo" 84' 9W "Project Bondo"; 86 2R "Project Evil" (GONE!); 90' 5.0 LX Vert; 98 Dodge Neon ACR Track Car; 05 SRT-4 ACR! ---"Real tomato ketchup Eddie?"

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        • #5
          As for the rusty bolts, I would prolly grind the heads off and knock them out after the K member is off. This is the only way I have been able to get the most stubborn of rusted bolts off (I have seen more than my fair share).

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          • #6
            It might be expensive but I think it would be best to replace the entire frame rail at a shop that has a frame bench to make sure it's straight. I know we talked about it the other day on the phone but I don't remember if you said if the rest of the car was straight? I know there is a fair amount of play when bolting up a K member so you may be able to measure 10 times and weld once?

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