Stumbling Idle

[SVOhNo]

Ill take pics of that, the comp, everything I can and post em up later tonight or sometime tomorrow. This is blowin my mind, but I figured I would get away from it the rest of the day, clear my head and try again later fresh. Mechanic keeps tellin me that its the comp relearnin and that it will take a while, Im callin BS right now. Anyways, Ill get those pics and post em as soon as I can!
Matt

[SVOeric]

the computers of that era relearn everything in about 10 mins -- max

if you're still getting TPS codes -- I think that's a big flashing red light...

As mentioned before -- did the mechanic install the TPS correctly -- most cars do not have an adjustable TPS...

Go to the FAQ section, and look at the TPS/idle thread...print it out, and take it to him.

[Pat_in_L.A.]

Originally posted by SVOhNo
Mechanic keeps tellin me that its the comp relearnin and that it will take a while, Im callin BS right now. Anyways, Ill get those pics and post em as soon as I can!

Please note this to the mechanic. If it were just relearning, it would throw a code 99.

99 (R) ISC needs to learn (Let idle for 2 minutes; Erase memory and retest)

Erasing memory is done through the scanner options. If he unplugs the battery to erase codes, it will send you back where you started in an endless loop of "needing to relearn" nonsense.

(I'll PM the address where to send the beer)

[Gyrhead]

TPS Wiring?

Ok, while my TPS on the new 2R is also tossing Code 23, I thought now would be a good time to discuss routing of the harness. Now, my Mitchell's wiring diagram states:

TPS harness-3 wires:

-Orange with White tracer ties into orange white from Baro sensor and then to pin 26 on EEC-IV

-Dark Green with Light Green tracer goes to pin 47 on EEC-IV

-Black with White tracer, ties into black/white combo from self test connector, baro sensor, CTS, VAF, fuel pump relay and knock sensor and then goes from knock sensor to yellow/red to pin 23 on EEC-IV and pin 46 on EEC-IV

Not to hijack, but Pat, there is not much of a harness on my TPS/IAC bundle...about 8" before it goes into the grommet on the firewall by the heater core lines. Where might the harness be trashed? Inside the kick panel or worse, behind the dash? (I'm going right now to peel it back and see if there is any obvious issue)

Any way to tone out these connections with an ohm meter or would the other interconnections screw up the readings?

[GAboySVO]

Paul,

Normally, the wires will be toasted in the heat of the engine bay and that along with oil causes the wire insulation to become brittle and break off.

The wires in an 86 were not as proned to this problem. Most of the wiring behind the firewall should be good unless there is chaffing.

[under pressure]

I had one melt on my 85 because it was laying next to the EGR tube.

[SVOhNo]

Yeah, the wires under there dont look great, many cracked or missing insulators, etc. I messed around with the wires a little and it ran really well down the driveway into 2nd gear, then on the street until I shifted 3rd and it all went downhill till I eventually came home with it barely runnin. I have alot to do today, so I wont get to mess with it much, but Ill get back out there and see what I can do. Anyone know where I can get replacement plugs, or are they easy to re-wire?
Matt

[NavySVO]

Originally posted by SVOhNo
Anyone know where I can get replacement plugs, or are they easy to re-wire?
Matt

By plugs, I am guessing you mean the connectors for different sensors in the engine compartment? If so, go here:

https://www.forced4.com

they are a vendor that is supported by this club. You may want to become a member. It costs $30.00, but you can get that back easily in the discount with a single purchase from some of our vendors.

[SVOhNo]

OOOOKKKKK, here we go, this is what I did all night

1) Check to make sure computer harness/plug/pins are all right, CHECK
2) Take IAC off throttle body and clean the crap out of it with carb cleaner CHECK
3)Use volt meter to set TPS to .90closed throttle, 4.75 WOT. CHECK

Check all wires, look for any vac leaks etc.

Drove the car around, drove like trash at first, but noticably better than before. Still cant get into boost to save my life. Now, when its not in boost the car runs great, minute you try to get on it tho, starts sputtering and jerking...CMOOOON, lol. Was pretty pissed, then I went with a hunch. I brought out the console switches and harness (took console out to clean up) and plugged the FUEL switch in and switched it to premium. Seems to run a little better now, but still cant really get into boost. Then I pull over one more time, the idle has cleared up and is really steady at about 1100rpm...unplug the premium switch, nothin happens, car runs the same...wierd. Get it home, its NOTICABLY better at idle, and seems like it wants to co-operate. Could this TRUELY be the comp. learnin rather than before when it was just bein a jackass, lol. It seems like its slowly gettin better and better, only problem is I still cant get into boost at all without sputtering/hiccuping. Maybe Ill turn the fuel pressure up a bit and see what happens...grr, its gettin there, lol, but I wish I could figure this out. OHHHH, noticed when I was lookin at the wiring to the comp, there is no wire added for the ACT, should I do this? Thats it for now, I know this is all gonna work out and from now on, screw my mechanic, Im doin it myself with yalls help!
Matt

[Pat_in_L.A.]

OK so you made some progress.

Here's what I'd do next. The local Autozone will loan you a code reader for the price of the tool, which will be given back when the tool is returned. Read the codes yourself and report back with the results. If some codes no longer appear, you'll know what you fixed. We will then deal with the remaining trouble codes one step at a time. You may wish to scout out in advance a known good VAM locally for a back to back test.

[NavySVO]

Originally posted by SVOhNo
Use volt meter to set TPS to .90closed throttle, 4.75 WOT. CHECK

Did you use an analog volt meter to check the sweep of the TPS from idle to WOT to see if there is a "dead spot"?

[under pressure]

Mine was doing the same thing when I would get any boost. I don't think your computer is the problem. Mine at times would act like a vaccum leak and then it would run fine. The hose that connects the TB to the intercooler had tiny holes on the bottom side where the plug wires lay accross the valve cover. I also descovered one of the little hoses that go from the inlet of the turbo to the wastegate had a hairline cut. Start from the VAM and examin every place ( a lot) that you can get a vaccum leak. Even the seals on the TB. I think you've got a vaccumm leak. You can use WD 40 to spray around possible areas and see if you hear the engine rpm change. Or as my lead Jim H. showed me either, but I don't recomend either! very dangerous. Rick

[SVOhNo]

Alright guys, it started runnin alot better last night after I pulled over and examined a "redundant" hose that went from a fitting where the PCV hose entered the custom intake. It runs from that fitting to the fitting on the cold housing of the turbo...remembered that it was really easy to remove and it was actually crushed, so I took it off and plugged the turbo side and crimped the hose (only had one nipple plug). Ran better, but still not quite perfect. Its all a game of messin with what the shop screwed with, Im checkin wires, hoses, connectors, clamps etc for anything out of whack. I will try to get some codes again as soon as possible and report back.
Matt