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**svobud** · 12-21-2005, 01:35 PM

Get a new block ( junkyard motor will do) and just do a stock rebuild on it. ON TOP OF THAT. Have a head ported/big valves/cam to match that big honker turbo you have. You'll reach your goal with no problem.

Get the B Springs for a more comfortable ride. C springs are pretty hard.

Dont forget to check your clutch while you're in there and replace it if needed.

**SVOeric** · 12-21-2005, 01:53 PM

If you are coming down from colorado -- stop and pick up chris roth on the way ---

I'd have to agree with bud -- to hit that 270, you are going to need more air going through the head than stock. It's will be a restriction for that big turbo.

**lonchair** · 12-21-2005, 02:07 PM

Originally posted by svobud
Get a new block ( junkyard motor will do) and just do a stock rebuild on it. ON TOP OF THAT. Have a head ported/big valves/cam to match that big honker turbo you have. You'll reach your goal with no problem...

Don't forget to port the intake and exhaust manifolds while you have them off.

As for a block, you can use a non-turbo one if you figure out the turbo oil drain (no biggie though). If you go with a DIS block out of a Ranger or Mustang, the odds are good you can come across a lower mile one with some looking. Yea you'll have a small journal block, but you'll also get a small journal crank with it if you get the whole motor.

**kyle shaw** · 12-21-2005, 02:43 PM

Thanks guy's.

Clutch..10-4 good buddy. I also found a RAD direct pull bellhousing that I'm going to use to get rid of theat darn dog bone cable.

Head... Can do. Hopefully I can find some one local that I trust to touch it. What valve size's should I run with and which brand/vendor.

Intake's... Ok I've done a bunch of searching and I cant seem to get a straight answer on this.
Are the square intake's that much better. I have the tall intake's from a 86 T-bird that are similar to 86 SVO that I could port. Pretty sure that I will also need a different dipstick and my fuel line's looked like they would fit. Or should I just work on the iline intake's?

Chirs Roth. LOL. He would have to meet me at my house. The last time I drove to his house my old canyon red 85 got rear ended.

Cam.. Will a A237 fit the bill. I've heard of to many horor storie's with big cam's and the stock head. I would rather not open that can of worm's if I can help it.

I just happen to ahve a DP/DIS block in my garage from a previous project. I'll have to tear it down and inspect the cyl wall's. I found a complete 2.3t from a anniversary car that I can get. They want a little more money than I wanted to spend but hey, whatever.

kyle

**DAVEZ84SVO** · 12-21-2005, 02:57 PM

Originally posted by svobud
Have a head ported/big valves/cam to match that big honker turbo you have. You'll reach your goal with no problem.

Get the B Springs for a more comfortable ride. C springs are pretty hard.

Dont forget to check your clutch while you're in there and replace it if needed. [/B]

I definatly agree with bud, the head is a big restriction..

A friend has the "C" springs in his SVO, I don't recomend them for street use.. If you do alot of driving, personaly i think the "B's" are much better.. (should get mine "B's" just after the holidays)

I don't like to over-bore blocks.. IMO, I'd use a new block..

Just a thought........

Dave

**bendutro** · 12-21-2005, 03:04 PM

IMHO, head work is always beneficial but in this case, not necessary to reach your goal. Keep your stock valves! The extra cost in hardware/machining required to install is just going to be a PITA on a reasonable combo/goal. A cleanup/port job with stock valves and maybe new springs will do the trick.

You have a great turbo that is well matched to the engine. A cam would compliment it very well, something a bit milder than an A237.. There are some mild sliders around for around $100 that you would love, no geometry muckups either.

You're gonna be stretching the 35#ers to the upper reaches of their duty cycle. Think about some 42# ers and an EEC tuner. (You've got a .63 turbine housing on that To4 right?)

**GAboySVO** · 12-21-2005, 03:25 PM

I saw this on the other SVO site:

4 sale brand new 2.3l blocks. these blocks are new in the crate, still has the cosmoline coating. perfect condition. have more than one. asking $400 but will deal. contact Shane phone 317-409-9387 or e-mail lsreffett@aol.com.
shane reffett (lsreffett@aol.com)
linden, mi
Posted: Thursday, December 08, 2005 at 21:28:04 (EST)

**NavySVO** · 12-21-2005, 03:28 PM

As for a cam, ensure you have minimal valve overlap, as it does not agree with a turbo engine.

**kyle shaw** · 12-21-2005, 03:28 PM

Originally posted by bendutro
IMHO, head work is always beneficial but in this case, not necessary to reach your goal. Keep your stock valves! The extra cost in hardware/machining required to install is just going to be a PITA on a reasonable combo/goal. A cleanup/port job with stock valves and maybe new springs will do the trick.

You have a great turbo that is well matched to the engine. A cam would compliment it very well, something a bit milder than an A237.. There are some mild sliders around for around $100 that you would love, no geometry muckups either.

You're gonna be stretching the 35#ers to the upper reaches of their duty cycle. Think about some 42# ers and an EEC tuner. (You've got a .63 turbine housing on that To4 right?)

yep it's a 63.

A friend can burn chip's using the Diablo and other hardware. He swear's that he can tear into the LA3's etc. So 42's shouldn be a problem along with a tune.

kyle

**SVOBart** · 12-21-2005, 03:29 PM

I installed 1.89" intake and 1.59" exhaust valves in my head. Anything larger than that and you start shrouding the intake valve.

From what I've gleaned from here and elsewhere, there isnt' alot of difference between the inline and square intakes in stock form. However it is much easier to port and modify the square intakes. You will need different fuel rails if you go with a square intake opposed to an inline as the injectors are spaced slightly differently. You will also need to drill and tap a extra hole in the head unless you're using a post 86 head.

**kyle shaw** · 12-21-2005, 06:12 PM

Ok.

Port my square intake's and double check my fuel rail for fitment.

Use stock piston's and stock bore, which is what I wanted to do anyway. I could prob turn the RE piston's on the "other" 2.3t site to recoupe some money.

On the cam issue. I was under the impression that everyone want's to use the roller cam's and not the slider's. I just happen to have a 86 spec cam laying around somewhere that I could also use in place of the RR.

On the head issue. The head is actually from the same turbocoupe that the intake is from so that wont be a issue.
As far as port work and valve's are concerned I will have to see how much the bottom end is going to cost me.
If money become's tight would it be safe to say that light port work would be more benfcial than just the big valve's?

kyle

**lonchair** · 12-21-2005, 07:35 PM

Originally posted by kyle shaw
...If money become's tight would it be safe to say that light port work would be more benfcial than just the big valve's?...

I'd say so. It's better if they are done together couse the head is already off, but if I had to chose-I'd go with port work.

But I bet someone will have a different opinion as well.

**kyle shaw** · 12-21-2005, 08:29 PM

Ok now I have a plan. I still need to look into a cam. Anyone have a particular manufacture that I should look into?

Thanks everyone.

kyle

**GAboySVO** · 12-21-2005, 09:03 PM

Here is another option from Motion Dynamics:

http://www.motion-dynamics.net/products/2point3/Complete2.3EnginePackages.htm

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