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Well, my stock alternator started to go again after a year and I decided to swap in a 130 amp 6G model to solve my dim lights problem.
I bought a 6G off of the bay. It comes with the multi-groove pulley for the single belt setup. I didn't have the stuff t do the serpentine belt and wanted to stay with my dual V-groove pulley. If you ever tried this, then you know that things don't line up out of the box.
The 6G alternator has a 3/8" tall ring lip around the shaft that won't let the pulley slide onto the shaft. It has to go. You will need to remove the front casing by removing three screws that hold the casing together. You will then need to remove the front shaft bearing retainer plate and then the bearing. A rubber mallet may be needed to presuade it off. I used a 4" grinder to remove this lip. You will need to remove it flush with the outer casing. I used the sandpaper type wheel, 80 grit.
Next, the shaft hole diameter will have to be inlarged. You will need to The lip on the dual v-grooved pulley is 29mm diameter. So you will need to enlarge the hole to ~31mm (13/16"). I used a step drill bit to do this.
It just so happens that when the back of the dual v-groove pulley mates up to the inner race of the shaft bearing, the offset from the centerline of the grooves to the face of the pivot mounting surface is exactly the same distance as the stock unit, 2".
The new alternator has different threads than stock so you will need to reuse the new nut. Tighten everything up and you are ready for the next step.
The "fixed" hole on the 6G casing is a through hole. You can use a bolt and nut arrangement or you can do what I did. The hole just happens to be the correct size for tapping a 7/16-20 UNF thread into it. I got the tap and bolt from AZ. It was a snap.
The wiring is as published elsewhere on the web for a 3G swap. PA-performance has a plug you can buy or your local Ford dealer. I removed the center white wire as it is not needed and plugged the hole with some silicon. The stock rubber cap for power wire can be used on the 4GA wire to the battery side of the starter solenoid. (see last pic)
I used a spacer under the tube brace from the alternator bracket to the upper intake for clearance.
Here are some pics.
I bought a 6G off of the bay. It comes with the multi-groove pulley for the single belt setup. I didn't have the stuff t do the serpentine belt and wanted to stay with my dual V-groove pulley. If you ever tried this, then you know that things don't line up out of the box.
The 6G alternator has a 3/8" tall ring lip around the shaft that won't let the pulley slide onto the shaft. It has to go. You will need to remove the front casing by removing three screws that hold the casing together. You will then need to remove the front shaft bearing retainer plate and then the bearing. A rubber mallet may be needed to presuade it off. I used a 4" grinder to remove this lip. You will need to remove it flush with the outer casing. I used the sandpaper type wheel, 80 grit.
Next, the shaft hole diameter will have to be inlarged. You will need to The lip on the dual v-grooved pulley is 29mm diameter. So you will need to enlarge the hole to ~31mm (13/16"). I used a step drill bit to do this.
It just so happens that when the back of the dual v-groove pulley mates up to the inner race of the shaft bearing, the offset from the centerline of the grooves to the face of the pivot mounting surface is exactly the same distance as the stock unit, 2".
The new alternator has different threads than stock so you will need to reuse the new nut. Tighten everything up and you are ready for the next step.
The "fixed" hole on the 6G casing is a through hole. You can use a bolt and nut arrangement or you can do what I did. The hole just happens to be the correct size for tapping a 7/16-20 UNF thread into it. I got the tap and bolt from AZ. It was a snap.
The wiring is as published elsewhere on the web for a 3G swap. PA-performance has a plug you can buy or your local Ford dealer. I removed the center white wire as it is not needed and plugged the hole with some silicon. The stock rubber cap for power wire can be used on the 4GA wire to the battery side of the starter solenoid. (see last pic)
I used a spacer under the tube brace from the alternator bracket to the upper intake for clearance.
Here are some pics.
Attached Files