No Power when I turn the key to the on position!!

[ryanc]

I was working on the car today and got everything set up to start but when I turn the key to on, no dash lights come on and you dont hear the fuel pump come on. Do I just need to get a new ignition switch?

[NY eric]

Check the main power relay. It is by the computer under the dash.

[NavySVO]

I was working on the car today

2 questions.....
What were you working on?
Did it turn over/start before you worked on it?

[ryanc]

2 questions.....
What were you working on?
Did it turn over/start before you worked on it?

I was working on my 85 SVO. When I got the car, the motor was shot but it came with a new motor that I just got everything hooked up to. So this was the first time, since Ive had the car, that the key has been in the ignition.

[ryanc]

Check the main power relay. It is by the computer under the dash.

How do I locate that (aside from looking next to the computer), and once I do, how do I check it?

[NavySVO]

there is the EEC relay that is right next to the computer.

Did you ground the EEC?

But, you also don't have dash lights....did you check the ground for the entire car's electrical system? Is it CLEAN and tight?

[Rabidinredd]

I had a similar problem with my '84; from out of nowhere, key on resulted in no fuel pump (sound) and no starter (cranking), but dash lights and radio functional. From a search on this site, I concluded it might be the 18-gauge fusible link connected to the starter solenoid. When I went to check it for continuity (because unlike a fuse, you can't see if the wire has burned), the crimped connection from the solenoid to the link fell away in my hands. I replaced the fusible link with a maxi fuse holder and a 50-amp fuse (as indicated on the conversion chart I also found on this site). I have crank and fuel again; even better news is that the link actually hadn't burnt; just a bad crimp connection, so I don't have to chase down a short in the ignition. however, I do have to chase down a cold start/poor idle condition that may be due to an ages-old Engine Coolant Temperature sensor.

[Pat_in_L.A.]

I do have to chase down a cold start/poor idle condition that may be due to an ages-old Engine Coolant Temperature sensor.

It may also be due to an ages-old accumulation of rusty deposits that are blocking off the passage to the Coolant Temp Sensor. Unbolt the CTS (a 1" deep socket works well) and see if coolant escapes. If it doesn't flow out freely you may have a blocked passage. The best way is to remove the lower manifold and clean the passage thoroughly.

[NY eric]

How do I locate that (aside from looking next to the computer), and once I do, how do I check it?

I Will try and dig up the links that Mr PAT and Mr. Flemming gave me when I had the same problem. Someone online has the EVTM scanned in. With an idiot light and some patience it is easy to find

[Pat_in_L.A.]

EEC Relay pics.