Is it easier to remove/install the head with the lower intake installed or removed? Any other tips or good things to know regarding replacing a 2.3 head? I've got lots of V-ate experience but little 2.3.
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Any tips for R&R a head?
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I prefer to R&R the head with the lower intake on. Some of those bolts underneath the intake can be a bugger to get to and the lower intake doesn't make much difference in the weight, comparatively speaking. It can also be used as a lever to help break the head loose if its stuck to the block.
A 2.3L head fully assembled is a heavy sucker though, so it may be a good idea to have a helper available just to manage the weight.1986 1D - An oil return and rear end away from FINALLY being fully streetable again!
2007 Mazda3 2.3L 5 Speed hatch
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Biggest tip is to make sure the head and the block are flat before you put it back together.Originally posted by tateg View PostIs it easier to remove/install the head with the lower intake installed or removed? Any other tips or good things to know regarding replacing a 2.3 head? I've got lots of V-ate experience but little 2.3.
Pulling the head with the intake on is faster, but make sure you disconnect the dipstick, oil sensor wire to the oil pan, and the water line on the bottom of the intake.
Pulling with the intake on only impeades the removal of the oil line that goes to the turbo. That's a hard piece to get at with a 11mm open end wrench.
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I second this. I put another deep scratch in my front bumper cover when I was removing my head. I could have also very easily hurt my back. I was in the engine bay, BTW.Originally posted by SVOBart View PostA 2.3L head fully assembled is a heavy sucker though, so it may be a good idea to have a helper available just to manage the weight.86 SVO, 69 AMX, 91 SHO, 91 Bronco
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I bought a cherry picker just for the reason. I think that bending like that and lifting that much wieght is just asking for trouble. I just remove the TB, valve cover and unbolt and unplug every thing else. Im also a fairly big guy(6'2" 240lbs). I just think smarter is better than hurting my self or the car.Originally posted by 1fastII View PostI second this. I put another deep scratch in my front bumper cover when I was removing my head. I could have also very easily hurt my back. I was in the engine bay, BTW.1994 Lightning
1985 2A SVO
1985 2R SVO
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Yep, I remember asking the same question when replacing a blown head gasket on our 86. Someone said they always unbolt the downpipe and pull the intake hose and pull the whole head. After removing the exhaust manifold, intake manifold and staning in the engine bay to pull the head out and hand to my able-bodied assisant (wife), I can assure you that the whole enchilada is HEAVY.
If you have a cherry-picker, then you can probably get away with pulling all as an assembly. I didn't. If you don't have a cherry picker, I'd remove all the bolt-on stuff first. The head and cam alone are still quite heavy.
If you pull the cam, don't forget that the cam is hollow. You'll need to seal the cam bolt when reassembling things, or you will get a horrendous oil leak. Not nice if the engine compartment was (otherwise) spotless.
Gene Beaird
86 2R SVO, G Stock,
Pearland, TexasGene Beaird,
86 2R SVO, G Stock,
Pearland, Texas
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What is used to seal the cam bolt, Loc Tite? Or something else like Teflon tape?Originally posted by gbeaird View PostIf you pull the cam, don't forget that the cam is hollow. You'll need to seal the cam bolt when reassembling things, or you will get a horrendous oil leak. Not nice if the engine compartment was (otherwise) spotless.
Gene Beaird
86 2R SVO, G Stock,
Pearland, Texas
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