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  • AFCO Radiator

    Hello all. After a long break from working on the SVO, I'm ready to get it running. I have installed the FMIC from Forced4 and I am finding that no matter how I run the tubes, they will rub on the radiator. I'm looking at the AFCO 80101FN. It measures 27.5 inches across whereas the factory one measures 29.5 inches across. I read somewhere that someone here used an AFCO. Does this sound/look like a viable solution? I read all the posts on the ranger radiator, but I don't like how the bottom hose connection faces downward. I'm seriously open to suggestions as this is the only thing I need to get in place to start running this car again. Thanks for any help.



    Tony

  • #2
    Check these out: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/7347...dandMopar.html
    I found one to fit between my NPR.
    Dani
    fourgasm

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    • #3
      weird. Is it both tubes or just the cross over. I found on later units I had to lengthened the coupler there to allow it to sneak arround the rad.

      FYI I put the same afco rad on my car over time since the stock unit failed
      Confucius says" a closed mouth gathers no foot"

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      • #4
        Dani,
        Thanks for the website. I'm going to look into these. They are pretty close in price to the AFCO.

        Eric,
        Long time no talk to! Yeah, it's both tubes. I have the IC as far left (looking at the front) as I can get it. I even elongated the mounting holes a bit to get the tubes within 1/8 of the core support. After 21 years of aviation, I'm not a big fan of to objects rubbing together, so I want a narrower radiator.
        Tony

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        • #5
          long time. But I am still here. It shouldnt rub. But after 20 years I have seen alot of variation on cars. So nothing suprises me. You should check the bay. I got mine on there fro 120 or something.
          Confucius says" a closed mouth gathers no foot"

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          • #6
            Consider moving the radiator a tiny bit. On my Anny, I had the same issue (with a home made IC set up). I found that by flipping the lower rubber radiator saddles around in different combo's , I could move the radiator over just at a quarter inch. At the time, I used the stock rubber upper mounts trimmed a little , and the stock upper brakets. However, if I were to do it all over, I would just buy one of the long flat aftermarket upper mounts.

            You could not tell without it being pointed out when looking at it.
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            If you look close, you can just make out that the rubber upper's and just coming a little more on the right of the braket.
            (wish I could give you more exact details on how I flipped and trimmed, but i did it atleast 6 years ago)
            84 GT350 2.3 T-top
            84 Turbo GT T-top 9W

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            • #7
              I bought a Speedway Tru cool, be advised it comes with the wrong size outlet on the bottom and has no petcock provision for a drain. Also the filler cap has to be cut and re welded to fit under the hood. I think the AFCO would be a better bet if only for the tanks apear to be square on the bottom making custom mounts easyer to fab. The Tru Cool comes down at a 45 on one side leaving about a one inch area to mount on.
              Bruce

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              • #8
                GT350R,
                I thought about moving the radiator since it really only needs to move 1/2 inch at best. The motivating factor to a smaller radiator is: I need a new one anyway. My sons decided to stress test my current radiator with a basketball

                Bruce,
                Thanks for the tip! I'm ordering an AFCO on Thursday. I'm just price shopping now.

                Eric,
                Your FMIC is a great part! Please don't think I think otherwise. The problem might be with the fact that the radiator that came in the car may be an Autozoner. The tanks are fairly square and measures slightly above the 29.5 inches across.
                Tony

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by U S Marine View Post
                  GT350R,


                  Eric,
                  Your FMIC is a great part! Please don't think I think otherwise. The problem might be with the fact that the radiator that came in the car may be an Autozoner. The tanks are fairly square and measures slightly above the 29.5 inches across.
                  I didnt take it that way at all. I just know in 20 years these cars do move a bit and you are right if the rad has square end tanks then it is a aftermarket one. I believe all the ford ones have rounded end tanks. I am just trying to be suportive of our products and trying to help as much as I possibly can.

                  As always I am here to help
                  Confucius says" a closed mouth gathers no foot"

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                  • #10
                    I have an AFCO in my SVO now so here's a few things to consider.

                    The stock cooling hoses are not the same size as the inlet and oulets on the AFCO. I used the SS flextube hose kit from Summit with adaptor bushings.

                    The endtanks do not fit in the stock radiator support brackets without flattening the tabs down. Likewise, the stock radiator hold-downs on the upper radiator support will not work. I made a nice clean pair with some stainless stock and a couple machine screws and nuts.

                    There is no petcaulk (ha not censored) so you'll need a siphon tube to empty it.

                    That being said, it is a high quality piece that does it's job very well. FWIW, I'm looking into a new setup to allow a FMIC because I have the wide 80100FN. No complaints at all with the piece, just know what the install will entail first.
                    The BATFE should be a convenience store.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by bendutro View Post
                      There is no petcaulk (ha not censored) so you'll need a siphon tube to empty it.
                      That can be fixed by a local shop that has the right skills to braze, solder, tig, etc..
                      It's nothing more than a threaded bung with a valve screwed into it.

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