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My car started over heating on the ride home from work, now when I did the oil change my coolant resevoir was topped off as well. So when I get home I let it cool down and remove the radiator cap, there was no coolant, also no coolant in the resevoir.
that is very strange to me. I've blown head gaskets in my day with boost and seen the milk shake aftermath, but never a drained radiator and reservoir for the same thing. When a motor uses coolant it's either a leak in the system or a headgasket and it's normally gradual and not all at once. Unless the headgasket is completely shot and open in several areas it could just be a coolant leak somewhere. I don't know.. I'm curious about this one.
any smoke in the engine bay? white smoke in teh exhaust? anything?
I was thinking about it and there was a lot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust today, and I did check the dip stick and there wasn't a milky substance but I think it is a blown head gasket.
It did smoke as well from the engine bay at one point.
[QUOTE=BrianO;156307]well I was going to say a coolant line to the turbo, QUOTE]
on a water and oil cooled turbo, the coolant does not interface with the oil or air sides, it goes through it's own passage
So you're saying that there is some good in the situation? But the oil is still clean no milky substance like I said.
I take this as a good opportunity to start some machine work.
yes that's what I'm saying. I could show you pictures of when I had just put my GT engine together, filled it with 7 new quarts of Royal Purple and then blew a headgasket.. that's 7x $6.99 down the drain not including filter, new o-ring headgasket, several quarts of cheapy oil to get the milk shake out of the engine, hours to replace, etc...
a little alignment dowel pin that costs 50 cents ended up costing me $175
anyways.. apparently the SVO motors aren't too difficult to remove the head and replace gasket. I'll have to do that soon enough.
well I was going to say a coolant line to the turbo, QUOTE]
on a water and oil cooled turbo, the coolant does not interface with the oil or air sides, it goes through it's own passage
Looks like the engine is just going to be ripped out, my instructor said I can rebuild it while at school so I might as well get the whole rotating gasket/seal/bearing kit and rebuild it.
Also it would probably be a good idea to get the Fel Pro spacer shim to lower the CR a bit right?
to mis-quote corky bell : "The squish area around the edge of the piston is holy ground. do NOT tamper with it the only way to properly change CR is to adjust piston dish volume, or modify the head in such a way that does not alter squish. a 7.5CR with enlarged squish clearance may detonate worse then a 8.5CR engine with proper squish clearance."
stock long blocks are good for well over 20psi if you keep the charge air cool.
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