Front clip prep for paint

[strangesvo]

Bought a front clip from a member a year or so ago and it's 2A (medium canyon red) and I need to paint it 1C (Black). Asking what's the best way to prep it for paint? My experience with body work is minimal but I would sand it with a few different grits then spray it with primer. I might have to add a special adhesive to the primer and paint so it will adhere to the plastic. Just want some advise on the steps and process to paint this front clip correctly. Don't want to have to do it twice. Thanks

[svono50]

When I had my car repainted back in '98 (wow, that long ago already?!?) my body shop sent out all the plastic parts to be walnut blasted to remove all the factory and repair paint that was on them. The parts looked virtually brand new and he had a completely clean/fresh surface to work with. You would only need to use a 'plastic' specific primer to make sure it adheres to the cover properly and then the base/top coats would only have to worry about the primer surface. I asked my body shop guy about adding 'flex agent' to the paint on the bumper covers and he gave me quite the sour face look. His opinion was that you use the 'best' paint materials, which are naturally flexible, and you don't have to worry about adding 'extra' ingredients to the paint. Based on my 20 years of wear/tear, I have to say his opinion was spot on, as I still have no cracking/peeling on any plastic painted parts.

[gbeaird]

The comment I got from my painter regarding the flex additive was that it did no better than using paint without it. Simply not worth the expense. The amazing part was how expensive the red paint was. =8-0

[svono50]

Friend of mine had his 84 GT repainted in Acura NSX red back in the mid-90's and for some reason I seem to remember that paint was >$600/gallon and he had to purchase 2 gallons!
It looked great, but not 'that' great...yep, that was a way expensive paint job!

[strangesvo]

Do you think I can leave the headlight panel in when getting it blasted? I rally don't want to remove that. Re installing it will be a pain. And I don't want the blasting to damage the headlight panel.

[svono50]

I think they should be able to leave the header panel attached. Just let them know you don't want it blasted as well and they should be able to mask it off appropriately.

[gbeaird]

And make sure they know that header is made of unobtanium, and to treat it like it's irreplaceable.

[svono50]

And make sure they know that header is made of unobtanium, and to treat it like it's irreplaceable.

Good point Gene! Mine was separated during my repaint and the new pop rivets did break some of the mounting tabs in the header panel, but my nose is still firmly attached. If that header panel was that brittle back 20 years ago, I can only imagine what it would be like today.

[gbeaird]

Honestly, I think if I had an original in one piece, I'd pull it and reinforce the back side with additional fiberglass. It won't be pretty, but may help hold things together while the cover is handled. The rivets are readily-available.

Too bad we can't get another run of that aftermarket panel.

[svono50]

Honestly, I think if I had an original in one piece, I'd pull it and reinforce the back side with additional fiberglass. It won't be pretty, but may help hold things together while the cover is handled. The rivets are readily-available.

Too bad we can't get another run of that aftermarket panel.

We just need to keep pestering Paul to get another run in the works