What to do?

[GAboySVO]

The O2 sensor can be picked up at NAPA or other local parts stores. You will need to remove the Intercooler to get access. It will be worth the money to buy the proper socket to remove it.

The EGR is mounted on the back of the upper intake manifold. It is connected to a steel tube that runs around the back of the engine to the exhaust manifold. You will need to loosen the tube nut then remove the EGR valve. The EGR valve has a silver disk with a vacuum line attached to it. The is a 1/2" port that goes to the intake. You can use a small screw driver to punch through the carbon build up and a small brush to clean it out. You might want to use some Carb cleaner.

Speaking of the PCV valve, you might want to take that out and clean as well. If the seat of the valve is gummed up with oil residue from sitting a couple of years, then it could be allowing crankcase gases (oil fumes & blow-by) when it should be closed.

[Otto Man]

Door Molding

As we all know by now my car sat covered for the better part of 2 years. When I started bringing her back to life I noticed the passenger side door molding had just fallen off the car. Go figure this one! It was just laying and the ground next to the door (under the carcover), with a black strip (tape?) still stuck on the door. The curious thing is that on the back (inboard side) of the molding is a bead of what looks like glue along the whole strip. A long time ago I had a small dent taken out of the lower door area. Could the stupid body shop have removed molding to paint the door and simply glued it back on? Any thoughts on how I can remove the hardend glue from the molding and stick the molding back in place?
If you look closely at the pic on page 1 here you will see the thin black line (tape) where the molding should be!
Thanks
Chris

[Mr. Pink]

Originally posted by svohoo
Chris,

You're in Ellicott City? I am working just down the road in Elkridge. I'd love to see your 85.5 sometime.

I'm close to both of you too....over on Fort Meade (Odenton area)

Jason

[Otto Man]

Our own Baby Reunion

Our SVO's should meet!
They would be great friends.
All I gotta do is fix the heater core! Check out my pix in the Welcome Area!
Chris

[KevinK]

On that Ebrake problem. First make sure the rear brake pads are set to the right gap.

You can try a some bandaid fixes. I have not worked on a 3rd generation e brake cable but there are oftern 2 places to adjust them. The first is by the handle and the other (which I'm not sure if it is on the car) is where the left and right cables meet. Some cars have an adjustment there but you have to get under the car to find it. The other option is to use a cable tensioner/ slack remover. These can usually be found at the auto parts store in the Help section. It's a simple bandaid that clamps on the cable to make it shorter.

[Eyelawdoc]

Re: Door Molding

Originally posted by Chris Weber
... The curious thing is that on the back (inboard side) of the molding is a bead of what looks like glue along the whole strip. A long time ago I had a small dent taken out of the lower door area. Could the stupid body shop have removed molding to paint the door and simply glued it back on? Any thoughts on how I can remove the hardend glue from the molding and stick the molding back in place?
If you look closely at the pic on page 1 here you will see the thin black line (tape) where the molding should be!
Thanks
Chris [/B]

Tough to tell you how to remove the glue without knowing what kind of glue it is. You might try heating the glue with a heat gun or hair dryer to see if it softens the glue and then try to scrape it off while it is warm.

[Mr. Pink]

I was looking for a E-brake cable as well and was informed that NAPA carries a replacement cable. It will have to be ordered, but was insured that they have a listing for our cars.

[Otto Man]

jz
Performance Parts, Inc in Virginia says they have them for $35 each!

http://www.mustangparts.com

I'm gonna call em tomorrow!
(703) 742-6207
Chris