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anyone got a fix for a melted fog light plug. I pulled my consol out lastnight and found the plug going into the switch is melted and deformed. It all still works but looks real unsafe. Any ideas on why and how this might have happened. Any thought on how to avoid this in the future if I can find a new plug to splice in?
....Still have to install that relay here/ the fogs are maybe 4 amps a piece @ 50? watts......Factory switch can't handle that prolly.....the trick is to put that relay lets say on the firewall & find the 'hot' wire going to the fogs/ tie IT to load side of relay & run a new "Hot" wire to the hot side of the start solenoid....Then you can run the fogs anytime you want!!
I'm talking about a regular +12v relay, available at pep boys/radio shack/wherever. they will be in the "spotlight" row.
as for the plug, it will probably ok if it still works. the current that goes through the switch AFTER the relay is installed will be very minimal.
'86 SVO (9L) SCCA autox car, "Sneezy"
'86 SVO (4E Leather comp-prep) "Kermit"
SOLD- Krusty.
'67 351w mustang coupe "Beastie", '65 mustang EFI conversion "shifty"
'89 xr4ti- got new everything. "white piece of crap"
So If I understand I can splice this in on the loom going to the fog lights. or should I just do it in the passenger compartment by the switch. Wich would be easier IYO.
I vote for splicing the relay into the circuit somewhere near the foglights, maybe on the front side of the core support where it can't be seen. That way it's just a short run of wire off the solenoid terminal to power the lights through the relay with no need to disturb the interior wiring of the car.
Don't forget an inline fuse on the lead from the solenoid to the relay! Hey, maybe you could put together an engineered kit to sell with the relay and wires already cut and ready to splice in and mount on the car! It would be a useful SVO product.
So I guess I will have to cut you in on the commission eh? Yes this was my thought. I will be happy to put them together and set it up but I am a little green on the 12v systems. give me 220-408 any day. I guess I will have to sit down with you and pat to figure out completly.
I have ordered the relays to convert this switch so that the only load it will have on it is to kick the relay.
Basically what you do is pull power from somewhere close to the battery (the starter solonid ??-- this is probably where I will pull it from ) and run the wire that powers the fogs now to the actuator on the relay, then find a good ground. -- the switch still handles 12V, but now only has the load of the relay on it (which is almost nothing) -- this makes the lights brighter, and if you pull straight from the battery, the fogs will work, even with the headlights out (which is illegal in some states BTW)
Until I get my install done -- I plan to run without my fogs
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