Bi-wing questions

[gbeaird]

I pulled the upper wing on our 86, as it is needing some repairs. I want to get it fixed before we attach it to the fiberglass hatch. The piece that runs under the lower spoiler on the passenger's side is broken off and the two studs that hold the upper wing to the hatch are busted out. I plan on epoxying everything back into place.

While gluing all back together, I need to know if the two studs protrude from the upper wing at an angle, or do they come straight down from the wing?

Also, can anyone provide some pictures, or measurement information for the two screws that hold the top of the upper wing onto the hatch? Our car had two different screws that were NOT doing the job, besides looking hideous. I have to modify the screws that hold that clip in at the top of the upper wing, as the screw tips _protrude_ through the wing from underneath.

I may have to end up painting the wings due to all the epoxy and patch work. Does anyone know what color would be best for a 86 bi-wing? The car is parked in the shop so that all you see it the back 2/3 of the car. Without that bi-wing, the car looks like just another Mustang. Thanks, all.

Gene Beaird,
86 2R SVO, G Stock,
Pearland, Texas

[mutant]

Paint colors are in the FAQ. You want DCC33717 from PPG.

The studs from the upper spoiler protrude at an angle. I took some 1/2 by 1/2 aluminum bar stock and made some new studmounts for a spoiler.

I found a sheetrock wall anchor that was just smaller than the hole in the hatch for the stud. from this I made a drill bit guide. then I clamped the aluminum bar to the hatch and drilled up through into bar from underneath. Then tap the hole and locktite a long screw in place. Tape up the hatch to protect from stray epoxy. Epoxy the new bar and stud into the wing using the screws to get the wing positioned properly on the hatch. I laid down some extra layers of tape just below the bar to make sure the aluminum bar tucked up into the wing.

[gbeaird]

So you hogged out a bit of that hard goop that is up in the wing where the stud used to mount in? Okay. I was just going to epoxy the stud in. I guess your method would give you a little more area for the epoxy to adhere to. Thanks.

Alternately, I guess I could remove some of the goop and make sort of a well for a lot more epoxy and just epoxy the stud into place. I like your idea of setting all down on the hatch to use as a form and alignment jig.

Do you know what Ford used for the original two top screws? I am hoping a PO didn't drill a couple of holes and just screwed the top of the bi-wing onto the hatch.

Gene Beaird

[mutant]

I don't know what Ford did. I put in threaded inserts and put the wing in with tamper resistant screws I got from McMaster-Carr.

[gbeaird]

The guy who is doing the body work recommended I remove most of the foamy stuff inside the upper wing, rough up the inside walls with some 180 grit and put some all-metal in there and let it set. He thinks, given the coarse thread the stud has on that end, we could tap threads into the all-metal and it would work fine.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

Gene Beaird,
86 2R SVO, G Stock,
Pearland, Texas

[gbeaird]

I don't know what Ford did. I put in threaded inserts and put the wing in with tamper resistant screws I got from McMaster-Carr.

Thanks. I'd really like to find factory-like screws, though. This car will get very-limited use after the restore. I suspect It will never be outside without me there with it, so tamper-resistant screws shouldn't be necessary.

Threaded inserts aren't a bad idea, though. Oh, BTW, we're putting the bi-wings on a HO-Fibertrends fiberglass hatch. I know I didn't say that before. Thanks.

Gene Beaird

[gbeaird]

Digging this one up and blowing the dust off of it.

My how time's fun when you're having flies!!

I'm _finally_ ready to bolt the bi-wing on the hatch. I figure that since it's going on a 'glass hatch, I'll use screws for fiberglass. I just want to make sure, though. It is obvious that a countersunk screw goes in the lower bi-wing hole, but it's not that obvious to me whether a countersunk head or flat head is used on the upper hole. Our OEM bi-wing has the holes broken out for the upper mount, and the aftermarket bi-wing we're using kind of looks like it uses a countersunk screw, but it's not as obvious as in the upper screw hole. Thanks.