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  • #16
    Well folks the news isn't good. Not good indeed. The hole for the hub isn't deep enough. There is about a 1/4" lacking before the wheel seats. Everything else was just fine.

    As I see it I have a few options;

    1. try to return the wheels. I'll pay shipping and a restocking fee. but they do have a return policy.
    2. machine the hub on the rotor. there is a *LOT* of material to be removed if I do this.
    3. machine the wheel with a die grinder. there is adequate material (maybe), at least my calibrated eyeball says there is. the only drawback is lack of resale value. Of course who really wants to put these 16" wheels on an '05+ Mustang anyway (that's all they will fit)
    4. put them on ebay and sell them at a lower loss than returning them.
    5. buy a spacer and stick them on the front. They don't look like they will be too far out with a 1/4" spacer and at least I'll be able to install them while I figure out what I want to do with them. I need new rotors anyway so I could get a pair and cut them down while these are on the car.
    6. convert to SN95 setup. the downside to this is I already have converted over to the Fatman control arms. Maybe I can just convert over to the SN95 spindles and brakes? Anyone know if this can be done? And what does it do to the suspension geometry?

    What would you do?

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    • #17
      Originally posted by tateg View Post
      6. convert to SN95 setup. the downside to this is I already have converted over to the Fatman control arms. Maybe I can just convert over to the SN95 spindles and brakes? Anyone know if this can be done? And what does it do to the suspension geometry?

      What would you do?
      If you don't want to change LCA's, you can convert to SN95 spindles but will have to machine them to fit the larger SVO balljoint. I might be able to help if you want this option as I believe I still have my set of spindles that have already been machined to fit the SVO balljoint.

      I personally like the SN95 brake option as they are better calipers than the OE SVO ones but it all depends on desire for originality or not.
      SVP Unlimited

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      • #18
        OK here's the update. I ordered two pairs of spacers. One pair is 3/16" and one is 5/16". Either is probably ok but I'll try them both and let everyone know which works.

        So why am I doing this instead of returning the wheels? Because for less than $400 this is still a good upgrade if only a 3/16" spacer is all that is needed to install the fronts. With that width I should even be just fine with stock lugs and nuts.

        After I try this I will probably swap my spindles for SN95 spindles and brakes since I can still use my struts and control arms. The spindles and brakes are an upgrade over the SVO stuff so I guess all will work out better anyway.

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        • #19
          I would keep as much of the stock SVO stuff as possible. I went from stock SVO to full SN95 conversion to an MM LCA and coil-over setup. The car did not handle as well with the SN95 conversion. I don't know if if was the sway bar alignment or an actual change in the geometry that caused a problem. If your just going to drive it as a street car probably doesn't matter. But if your going to track or autocross the car then I don't think you'll like the basic SN95 conversion.

          After installing the MM parts it was a completely different story
          Last edited by TheViking; 03-22-2008, 04:05 AM.
          86 SVO 1E, not stock. MM&FF May 2010
          2012 Mustang GT, also not stock.

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          • #20
            I'm not doing a full on SN95 conversion. I'm keeping the SVO lower control arm (It's already a Fatman tubular conversion), sway bar, steering and struts. I'm just replacing the spindle and brakes. Hopefully I'll retain the same handling properties. I'll let everyone know.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by TheViking View Post
              The car did not handle as well with the SN95 conversion.
              That's odd....while my swap was a combination of many parts it handles BETTER than it did before in stock form.
              SVP Unlimited

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              • #22
                I used pretty standard stuff. 04 Cobra LCA's, 94 spindles, Koni Yellow struts. Who knows, maybe it just depends on what you're used to.

                Very nice collection of cars BTW!
                86 SVO 1E, not stock. MM&FF May 2010
                2012 Mustang GT, also not stock.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by TheViking View Post
                  I used pretty standard stuff. 04 Cobra LCA's, 94 spindles, Koni Yellow struts. Who knows, maybe it just depends on what you're used to.

                  Very nice collection of cars BTW!
                  Well I drive a lot of different cars and build cars that are designed to handle so It's not that I am used to anything, I have a lot to compare to from the other SVO equipped with Griggs, LX with Kenny Brown Track Kit to more modern cars with MM parts....but I changed the swaybar, used Fox lower arms, tubular K member, Koni Yellows and '00 spindles. Of course it doesn't handle near what the Griggs equipped SVO does but it's better than what it was.

                  Thanks, if I could only get the time to make more progress on them than I already am.
                  SVP Unlimited

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                  • #24
                    The newer suspension is night and day. Mine is all 03 top to bottom- there is no reason to stick to SVO stuff for any reason other than originality. Unfortunately over time there will always be advancements in the power and quality of the automobile. Take what you can from more recent times and put it to work, especially when it is cheaper. A stock SVO should have stock stuff. Other than that (and it definitely applies on this forum) all bets are off.

                    FYI: I remember when my '94 Cobra was fast...
                    www.photobucket.com/albums/f315/horseplayauto

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                    • #25
                      Pics

                      I finally have them on. I had to use the 1/4" spacer from Motion Dynamics on the front because of the depth of the inner wheel hub. Things went on without incident except that I ground off about 1/16" off of the corner of the outer wheel bearing housing. Essentially I just rounded it off. Even with the spacer on the front they don't really stick out much if at all. There is no rubbing on turning and there was enough stud for me to get at least the mandatory six turns on the lug nuts.

                      Here are the pics. The first is (obviously) my car. The second is looking down on the real wheel. As you can see it's nicely tucked up underneath. the third is looking down on the front wheel. It has a spacer and still looks like it's adequately under the fender. Eventually I'll replace the spindle and rotor with something more wheel friendly and it will be further underneath.
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by tateg; 04-12-2008, 08:17 PM.

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                      • #26
                        That looks good.
                        86 Blue SVO "The Bandit"

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