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  • Ball joint boot replacement

    Looking for info/tips on installing the ball joint boots. I am also going to install new Konis. I have read and researched alot. Most info is for removing the springs or the entire LCA. Wanting to know what must be taken off, and what can be left in place. Can the springs be retained in the LCA? Will the Tie Rod end need to be dropped as well? Looking for the best tried/true way to replace them.

    Thanks
    Tim T
    86 2R #8031

  • #2
    I'm in the same position...just got boots from SVP. I did a search (if you haven't already, I'd do that) and it seems pretty straight forward. We have the struts removed so far.

    Make sure your LCA's are supported with a jack stand or jack when removing the struts. The springs will be contained that way, and you won't have to mess with them.

    You can check my blog for a little info of strut removal. I will be updating it as I get the boots installed and the new struts put back on.



    There was some interesting discussion on how to separate the spindle. Looks like using a fork is a no-no as it could damage the ball joint.

    I'm sure others will chime in with better info.

    Comment


    • #3
      An ^upward smack on the spindle. I was thinking a downward smack on the LCA.

      Tired...

      Thanks Mike
      Tim T
      86 2R #8031

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by MikeFleming
        If the nut isn't there, the arm will fly down quickly and the nearest person will die. That spring has a LOT of stored energy.
        SOO....your saying if I didn't like my neighbor I should have him wack at the spindle after I did take the nut off???

        Is their any mystery in how to put the new boot on? I read a couple places the replacement part is not exactly like the OEM one. Then again I read that Paris Hilton mated with a Sasquatch....wait, that was a dream I had last night.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by MikeFleming
          I'm sure you can figure it out - it's not rocket science.
          Oh great, now I've got all the pressure on me....thanks alot. Besides, you don't realize what a moron I am. Do you have any idea how long it took me to figure out where I should STOP clipping my toenails...for the longest time I figured the toe AND the toenails would grow back....who knew?!

          Ok...so I'll give it a shot, I was surprised to see how much smaller the new boots were....it doesn't even look like they will fit over the old ball joint, but the receipt does call them out for an SVO.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks again Mike.
            Tim T
            86 2R #8031

            Comment


            • #7
              Ok....I feel like I'm going to break something here so I thought I'd check again....after rereading the above instructions I still see no movement of the ball joint/LCA. Here is what I've done so far.

              1) New strut was re-installed.
              2) Cotter pin removed - nut top of ball joint
              3) Nut loosened (24mm by the way) so that there is a gap of about 3/8" between bottom of nut and spindle attachment point
              4) Floor jack positioned about 3/8" below the ball joint (Car frame is on jack stands)
              5) Beat many times on the spindle with my big-ole hammer perpendicular to the axis of the ball joint. Not hitting the nut down, however tempting it looks.
              6) Nada - zip - zilch for movement
              7) Came inside and consumed a Mikes Lemonade (how appropriate)

              Did I miss something? Hitting right location? Drinking right liquor or adequate quantity?

              Comment


              • #8
                no, this is the scenario I've explained to Mike, but he says it never happens... I've had several of these that would not seperate after hitting the side of the spindal. some I didn't even care about, and hit with a 5 pound sledge, and didn't budge them.

                If that's the case, your best bet is to get a special tool (autozone probably has it) -- it clamps around the metal on the spindal and pushes down on the threaded part of the ball joint.
                If you can't find one of those, use a fork, and consider the dust boot gone. I've never managed to mess up a ball joint with a fork, but it is technically possible... but not likley, unless you just enjoy beating on stuff.
                Eric C
                SVOCA Webmaster

                Comment


                • #9
                  Okley dokley...I'll give it a try today. But are you sure different alcohol won't help?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    it may help, but probably not with the ball-joint
                    Eric C
                    SVOCA Webmaster

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Ok...since the ball joint boot cover is destined to be removed and replaced and looking at the tight space behind the spindle where the "c" clamp thingamajig would fit, I think I'll elect to use the fork. I have one, but it is too small.

                      ARggg....a man just doesn't like admitting anything he has is too small.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        the smaller one is for tie-rod ends. they make a wider one for ball-joints.
                        Eric C
                        SVOCA Webmaster

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                        • #13
                          I went to the parts store...got one that called out for ball joints, it is about 1/4" wider than the one I had already. When I put it between the top of the ball joint and bottom of where it attaches to the spindle, it isn't wide enough to go around the ball joint taper....is there a larger one yet? They had tie rod and ball joint ones and I know I got the larger of the two.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            What size "big ole hammer" did you use?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              It was big...my question is whether the fork I have is still the right one...I don't want to damage the ball joint.

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