Good move getting the toolset. You'll be glad you did. Even following the procedure it took me a few tries. I ended up installing new Ebrake cables. One of them hung up and I cooked a back rotor. I remember being happy when I got them right.
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oh neat. I must be blind.. anyway.
I pumped the brakes to the point where the car was barely rolling down my driveway with just the parking brake. I turned the car on and shut it off and the car started rolling like I hadn't adjusted the brake before that. What gives?
The driver's side caliper at this point is the only caliper really applying any force when the parking brake is applied. If I can get the passenger side cable to work, or the caliper arm to move, I think I can get the car to hold.
The pass. side brake cable doesn't move. And is further back than the driver's side. Meaning it was stretched to reach the caliper arm. Not sure how to get the caliper arm to match the driver's side so it doesn't have to reach as far.Last edited by Nito2v; 07-03-2013, 08:30 PM.
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I went through exactly the same drill you are doing. My car has 126,000 miles on it and it was originally a northern car. My cables were so badly seized there was no way I could get a decent adjustment. I think once you get the new cables it will help a great deal. Hang in there
Richard H. Franklin Jr
Hayesville, NC
1986 7B
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Thanks for the support! My car has 116,000.
Still trying to wrap my head around why the passenger side caliper isn't the same as on the driver's side in terms of how the lever is positioned. Driver's side is about 30 degrees, the pass. side is 45 degrees.
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The two calipers should match lever position. You will likely have to remove both and go through the setup/adjustment again. I remember going through this pretty carefully when I was setting up/adjusting my replacement calipers a few years ago. Attached is a picture of my rear calipers for a different detail, but you can see the e-brake levers pretty much match. They seem a bit different from that angle, but they actually do match angles. BTW, on new/rebuilt calipers the 'cube' tool works just fine, but I can see how there could be issues on older units.Ted
86 SVO Mustang
17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4
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Mine are both rebuilt units that don't have more than 20 miles on them. Hopefully I didn't ruin them by not adjusting them when installing- all I did was pump the brakes until the rear brakes stopped the rotor from moving with the wheels off. The cables will be replaced. That should take care of everything.
Thanks for sharing the picture. The way they look in that picture is how mine actually look haha.
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Originally posted by Nito2v View PostThe cables are 69.5" right? Getting the ones off Rockauto for $36. Grabbing a distributer cap while I'm there.
No special tools needed to install right? Hoping to do this myself.
That length sounds right. There are many listed there do not chose the ones "EXEC SVO" also check the pictures that show the ends. You'll see the end that attaches to the caliper. You shouldn't need anything special tools. Good luck
Richard H. Franklin Jr
Hayesville, NC
1986 7B
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One handy tip I would recommend is when removing the old cable. There is a retainer clip with prongs that spread to lock the cable in place. Since the new one comes with the new cable. I ended up breaking the tabs to get the cable out instead of trying to squeeze and release them. Good luck pal
Richard H. Franklin Jr
Hayesville, NC
1986 7B
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The caliper on the pass. side can't be right. I took the cable end off of the caliper, and tried pushing the lever towards the front of the car and it wouldn't budge.. BUT I was able to move it the opposite direction all the way to a 2 o'clock position.
I didn't get the calipers mixed up.. because the driver's side goes the right direction and the lever is labeled LH.
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