Turbo Bolts (snapping off)

[Felung]

I am removing the exhaust manifold because it is cracked. I will be putting a 3" exhaust on the car, so the turbo to exhaust downturn needs to be disassembled and so I am in process on that now.

I have tried removing three of the 5 bolts on the exhaust downturn and all three have snapped off. Has anyone else had this experience and should I try heat, oil, etc. before trying the next two? More importatnly, what bolts should be used in the future so this won't occur?

Thanks for the help!

[tateg]

It happens to just about everyone. Charlie at Evergreen told me that once that elbow was installed it should not be removed.

For my stock elbow I eventually used studs in my turbine housing. For my aftermarket downpipe (from Motion Dynamics) I used the supplied bolts but added copper anti seize compound to the threads. I also use the anti seize on the turbine housing bolts. They will break off too after a few thousand miles if not removed once in a while.

[Felung]

Thanks

I'll snap off the other two and then get the whole thing in the shop.

[GAboySVO]

Once you get the old ones out, use some 18-8 Stainless steel replacements with anti-sieze as mentioned above. I have not broken one off since go this route. You can order the bolts from Mcmaster.com.

[bendutro]

Putting stainless in high temp cast iron... that's asking for breakage again.

McMaster has class 10.9 steel M8x1.25 20mm bolts that seem to be a better choice. If you don't care about correctness, I'd look at studs too.

[Felung]

Bolts Breaking -

Again thanks for the information and I will get updated bolts when I complete the removal. I ran out of time yesterday so will get after it again today. I am currently stuck on the last two bolts and can't figure a way to get a good enough grip (with clearance) to remove or break the last two bolts. I have tried to get the other pieces (either the exhaust turndown to exhaust pipe, or, the exhaust mani to turbo) removed so there is more clearance but all pieces are in such a nasty position, getting a wrench or socket on them is almost impossible.

Is there any process information on how to get this removed (exhaust manifold)?

Bob

[hotrodfeguy]

I just heated them up cherry/orange red and out they came. But will also be upgrading to SS myself. Its the heat that causes the corrosion that makes it so tough to remove. Also chase the threads with a tap/die.

[Felung]

Nuts!

Mike: with renewed vigor, I went home from work at lunch today and tried to get to the bolts and nuts and now have additional markings on my hand to provie it. Are you underneath the car when removing the Exhaust elbow bolts? The AC lines are giving me a huge challenge coming from the top with an extension/13mm socket. I am thinking of just cutting the exhaust pipe and removing the whole thing.

Thanks

[bendutro]

Stainless is not always an 'upgrade'.

The method I used successfully was to remove the E6 and turbo together and then soak the elbow bolts in PB blaster overnight. Heated them up with a torch, PB blasted again and then used a 3/8 drive impact wrench on a LOW SETTING and steadily increased until they started freeing up. YMMV.

[GAboySVO]

Putting stainless in high temp cast iron... that's asking for breakage again.

The stainless bolts I described have had 4 full days of road racing and a year of spirited daily driving and came out with no problems what ever.

[Felung]

Last 2

I was able to get the bolts out last night, thanks again for the advice. Stinger is modifying an outlet elbow to 3" and should have it done within the next few days. I am thinking of having a 3" pipe welded to the end of the outlet elbow so that the 2 bolt gasketless flange is eliminated. This would improve the access a bit if I need to get to do a replacement in the future.

Bob

[Felung]

Turbo Housing Cracked

Ok, finally had time to continue the replacement of the cracked exhaust manifold and upon disassembly I see that the turbo housing is cracked at the exit port (where there is a small circular hole). The outlet elbow covers this portion of the turbo housing. So the question is, what do I do now? Replace the turbo, if so, with what? Can a machinie shop fix the crack? Leave it as is? As usual, thanks in advance for your help here.....

[tateg]

Many of these housings crack from the heat. Replacement housings cost around $200 (or more) new. If the flapper completely covers it and you find no further cracks you are probably ok to use it.

[Felung]

Crack

Thanks, the cracks must propagate rather slowly then. It seems as if the housing is almost as much as some of the turbos I've seen.

One thing i didn't want to do was have to take it apart again anytime soon but it should be much easier if I do, I don't think it was ever worked on before (60k miles). Another question I have is the current exhaust manifold (assumed stock) was an E3 and I am replacing it with an E6. The difference of size between the main exhaust port (where 4 come into 1 at the turbo) is much bigger on the E6. I assume this will lower the RPM in which the turbo kicks in and increase the HP (all good things) but would appreciate any input anyone has had here.

Thanks

[Pat_in_L.A.]

Many of them have the crack there. They are still functional with the crack unless it is a big gaping hole.