More Engine Surging problems. (VIDEO)

[JohniT]

I think replacing the stator is also a great idea. Mine went bad after 20 years. But I made a mistake initially by buying a rebuilt auto parts dizzy. That dizzys gear destroyed itself taking out my axillary shaft as well. I had to drop the pan to clean all the metal shavings and replace the aux shaft and dizzy gear with aftermarket one. What a big Mistake.

What I should have done is keep the original dizzy and just rebuild it myself. It is not too hard to remove the dizzy gear and press back on. If you can't do it, take it to a shop. But make sure you reuse the original dizzy gear. They are much better quality and should not grenade on you.

After replacing the stator(pip) and TFI the engine revved much smoother and it made more power. I couldn't believe the difference. Definitely worth the upgrade in my opinion. Even if it hasn't gone bad yet ... it's good preventive maintenance in my opinion.

After I saw the difference in the SVO, I changed the stator/pip in my 95 GT which has a Kenne Bell super charger. I'm telling you the car had a significant increase in power and noticeable increase in rev smoothness. It also stopped pinging on part throttle accelerations. And it was easier to re-start the car on hot startups. I could not believe the power I was missing all that time before the pip/stator change.

[Decisions...]

I will be doing this repair on Saturday hopefully, very excited to see if it runs better.

[NavySVO]

Well? How did it go?

I always like to hear the outcome of things is all.........

[Decisions...]

Sorry I wasn't able to reply sooner for it has been a very busy weekend, but i was able to work on the car and I ended up replacing the distributor and TFI Module. After replacing it and setting timing, the car seemed to run great didn't have any problems, but then when i took the car for test drive and it got it all warmed up it started having the problems again. So I dont know, it only seems to do it now when the car gets to Operating Temp. The previous owner has put an aftermarket (MSD) Coil on so im thinking about changing that. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[JTsBOSS]

Sorry I wasn't able to reply sooner for it has been a very busy weekend, but i was able to work on the car and I ended up replacing the distributor and TFI Module. After replacing it and setting timing, the car seemed to run great didn't have any problems, but then when i took the car for test drive and it got it all warmed up it started having the problems again. So I dont know, it only seems to do it now when the car gets to Operating Temp. The previous owner has put an aftermarket (MSD) Coil on so im thinking about changing that. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

At the risk of throwing more parts at this, did you swap the VAM? My car was doing things like this and also getting some bucking this when it was warm and I thought I tried it all. I swaped the vam out for a used clean one from one of the guys here and that fixed all my issues. Just a thought someone else may want to comment.

JT

[BlueCASVO]

The previous owner has put an aftermarket (MSD) Coil on so im thinking about changing that. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I have not had good luck with MSD coils in SVOs (or Mallory)...for whatever reason, the Ford Motorcraft seems to be the best one, although I am running one I got from Motion D for about six months, that seems to be doing well. They perform badly at full boost - they feel like they aren't strong enough to spark under pressure - and seem to cause other drivability problems. I have no explanation, but I think this fact is pretty well documented on this forum...

I would definitely yank the MSD and put the Ford one in.

And you might want to replace the spark plug wires while you're at it - last time I ran an MSD coil it barbequed the stock spark plug wires after only about 10k miles...

[Decisions...]

I will look into getting a Ford Coil and getting rid of the MSD. I will also do some research on the VAM and see if i can't test it or find a replacement. I feel like im gettin closer to fixing the problem.

[NavySVO]

here is a test procedure

[Decisions...]

Thanks alot NavySvo, I will give this a try tonight and let you know how it goes.

[chalkys_explorer]

I had a similar problem to this last year. Tried everything...clean and eventually replace the IAC, VAM you name it. Eventually put a new throttle cable on it and the problem went away.

Also noticed in your vid that the car has cruise control. Make sure that the cable system for the CC isn't causing issues.

[Decisions...]

Ok, so I did the VAF/VAT Electrical Test and the results are as follows.

VREF- Good, I got 5.11 Volts (Range should be from 4-6 volts)

VAF SIG- Variable voltage from moving air vane meter through its entire range was good I think. I was reading 0.25 when vane meter was all the way closed and 4.58 when all the way open. No breaks as I moved meter from closed to fully open.

VAT SIG- This is where I think the problem might be, I checked the OHMS on this when the engine was at operating temp. and I was reading [B]1574 OHMS[/B] as to when it should be around 300 OHMS stated from the chart that NAVYSVO had supplied.

So am I looking at bad VAM?

[NavySVO]

I think you are comparing the resistance to engine coolant temperature instead of outside air temperature.
What was the temp in Ogden when you did this check?

[Decisions...]

The Temp in Ogden when I did the test was around 90 Degress, and about 45 min after I did the first test i went back out and checked it again and it went down to around 1456 OHMS. So what does this mean, is that good or bad?

[Decisions...]

Anyone? Anyone?

[NavySVO]

take a reading with NO HEAT in the engine bay from the car running and give us new numbers