PICS!!!!!!!!!! found out why i had a detonation problem

[boostedbruiser]

Forged who knows, heck i wonder if i still have the stock rods? the factory ones are forged rods aren't they?

I won't know what was all done until i get the engine out and get it checked.

So some ideas guys? where should i get parts and what should i put in it.

I'm not HP greedy, but i want peice of mind that the engine is strong.

[boostedbruiser]

Originally posted by Pat_in_L.A.
You mentioned a warranty. If they screwed up and installed flat tops with reliefs, they screwed up. Hopefully the cylinder walls will clean up where thay are now, but you need to run all this over with the rebuilder before you proceed any further. No rebuilder is likely to warranty it if they see all the aftermarket parts or hear about 20PSI boost..

Well given the Prior owner paid close to 4000 for the rebuild and labor, and it was supposed to atleast have NEW stock internals i would hope they cover it. obviously they installed the worng parts, shame shame on them. Who knows. i ight just end up biting it and paying for everything myself.

Hey atleast the WBO2 wasn't lying and i wasn't getting crappy gas. I HAD TO MUCH COMPRESSION arghhh!!!!!!

[boostedbruiser]

Only other isssue is the engine bulder is 200 miles away. it might not be wrth hauling the engine too him.

I'm just aggrevated.
the car did run good. NOT great, but good.

On the up side of this i'm going to cough up the cash probably for a T3/T4 hybrid . I sent my header off to get the EGR port. the head is gone to the machinist for port and polishing, along with bigger valves. Will probably get ARP studs for the head.
After i get the bottom end fixed it should run like a scalded dog, and not like a wet puppy as before.

[NavySVO]

Originally posted by boostedbruiser
Only other isssue is the engine bulder is 200 miles away. it might not be wrth hauling the engine too him.

See if the shop will work with you on the repairs. If it is under warrantee (whether it's parts or labor), get them to come up with some sort of agreement to get it fixed.

As for what Pat said about the "mods" and 20 psi boost, just have them fix the bottom end, and you take it to them. They don't need to know what has been done to the engine after they worked it. They just need to get the right pistons in there (if the rest is OK).
One note on the TURBO pistons......the ring lands should be thicker in addition to the lower CR dish tops.

If it comes down to it, see if they will give up some cash and walk.

[lonchair]

Originally posted by boostedbruiser
Only other isssue is the engine bulder is 200 miles away. it might not be wrth hauling the engine too him.

Where is the rebuilder at? If they are in central Texas, I'm in Austin and would be glad to help out in any face to face type stuff for you.

[boostedbruiser]

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well i found out what pistons are in the engine.
They are Silvolite Hypereutectic pistons, Flat tops at 9.5/1 compression.

Heres what the builder states. he says that all the pistons offered are for 2.3 and nonspecific to turbo. " they're all the same, i would've noticed dished pistons coming out of the motor"

even on the website for silvolite they states NON-TURBO APPLICATIONS ONLY. so lets see if he's going to do anything.

this is getting interesting.

[SVOeric]

do a google search TRW, Wiseco, Keith Black, JE, Mahle,-- they all certainly make a turbo specific piston for the 2.3.

Print it out, and hand it to him...

IMHO -- "I couldn't find a turbo specific piston, so I just stuck any old thing in there" isn't much of a excuse!

[GAboySVO]

Since you're in Texas and a couple of hours from Leander (Austin), TX, you should give the guys a Motion Dynamics a call. They know what they are doing. You can even buy a pre-assembled bottom end as well.

http://www.motion-dynamics.net/

You might want to consider becoming a member as the $30 fee will be quickly recouped with a turbo and engine component purchases.

[boostedbruiser]

well i have an engine builder lined up already, the shop has experience in 2.3's. the guy who's doing my head has had them do about (3) 2.3's for him in the last couple years, so no worry's there. Now i have to see if the previos builder is going to cough up the cash for the CORRECT pistons.

As for damage, well i don't see anything visable on the tops of the pistons.
probably why the engine lasted this long is the previous owner never turn the boost over 12 PSI and he didn't drive it much after getting it fixed.

As for when i drove it, well i know what Det. sounds like and i was nice to her. i knew the engine wasnt right, just couldn't put my finger on it till now.

My only other concern now is how are the RODS? are they stock? won't know till i get broke down more.

[boostedbruiser]

I've been meaning to become a member, just kept forgetting, but now i got the form in front of me.

To whomever look for the money in the mail.

[SVOeric]

as the last guy that built your engine is finding out-- there is a difference between 2.3, and 2.3 turbo -- make sure it's not just a circle track guy.
they like to deck the block and head to make sure you get about 12:1 compression ratio

Motion dynamics probably does 3 turbo motors a month -- cause that's just what they do....

Not busting on anyone, I just don't want to see you have problems again.

[NavySVO]

Originally posted by boostedbruiser
My only other concern now is how are the RODS? are they stock? won't know till i get broke down more.

Stock rods will still take a pounding.....from what a read, beyond 400 HP.......but then again, TORQUE is the King vs HP.

[boostedbruiser]

i know stock rods are strong, but does it have them anymore? thats the million dollar question, well maybe about 350.00 for new crower rods, but you get my drift..............

yea i'll give motion a call tomorrow. i'll be able to bring a bare block to them, so hopefully they don't kill me on labor.
I miched the bores and they came out at 3.807 for one and the rest are right next to that.
i shouldv'e wrote the size down, but inanycase, its been bored about .030.
There's hardly any ridge on the top of the cylinder and you can still see the cross hatching on the cylinder walls.

Hopefully i can get away with just a honing job and new pistons(praying)

[SVOeric]

from past experience, I can tell you that taper is more important than diameter -- (or at leas as important)

Take measurements in about 4 places between the bottom and top of the bore -- Taper should be less than .008

You also need to check for out of round -- but if I this engine really has the number of miles on it that you think it does, all that should be fine.

And My book shows the piston clearance to be between
.0030-.0038 ( for forged) and
.0014 - .0022 for cast on the 2.3

[lonchair]

Boosted Brusier,

Closer to you in Denton is Wayne Calvert Precision Engines. Wayne knows his stuff and has even built one or two turbo 2.3 motors in the past (one of them went in a Bonniville Salt Flats car). He also builds everything from top fuel drag motors to concourse correct Ford GM and Mopar big and small blocks.