Won't start! Vacuum leak, Timing?? IDK?

[spe926]

OK I just finished swaping out my stock head, e3, and intakes on my 84. I put on a ported big valve head with ranger roller cam, box style intake manifolds, accufab fuel pressure regulator w/ gauge, la3 ,and a 3rd gen Bob's log. I went to set timing and the cam pointer on the back timing cover was broken/mssing so I used the string method found in the sticky's and finished putting it together. When I started the car it would idle very roughly at 500 rpm and wouldn't go any higher even with wot. Took it apart redid timing again and now it won't even start. I checked all vaccum lines and replaced any I had taken off durring the swap so I am pretty sure it isn't a vaccum problem. Any Suggestions??

[Bruce]

Run Codes! Sounds like when I knocked off the vacume line to the charcoal canister. It did a similar thing as you are describing, mine wouldn't start without throttle and would not rev at all. The code reader said lean condition but it took me forever to find that line as it was under the VAF! It looked like a wire not a vacume line! Thought the code reader was wrong but it was me that was wrong! Good luck.

[BrianO]

could be a timing issue... is the dizzy a few teeth off perhaps? or the timing belt not aligned right?

[tateg]

There is another "string method" I've read about and used not usually mentioned on the board. When you installing your timing belt and only have the cam gear and crank gear on, point the key on the crank straight up and the key on the cam straight down. Run a string between them to make sure that they are aligned properly and you are set. Once they are straight up/down put your timing belt back on and then bolt everything else on. If you can't do that, mark the crank and cam gear positions so that you can relocate them after assembly.

I don't know about your setup but my cam gear pointer turned out to be about two teeth off after replacing my head. I had to go by the cam and crank gears' key but didn't hear about using a string between them until weeks after I had them assembled.

[NavySVO]

When you get the belt on and the tensioner in place, rotate the engine 2 entire combustion cycles using a ratchet and a socket. Remove the spark plugs first to ease this evolution.
When you are finished with this, ensure everything is still lined up. Then pull the distibutor cap and check the rotor alignment.

In addition, did you check the TPS settings after the intake swap? (free check)

Like Bruce said, run codes (free check)

[spe926]

Tateg: So use a string and match up the tdc on the crank with the mark on the cam gear? How does that work, where should distributor be pointing?

Navy: I didn't set tps because I didn't remove or mess with it and it ran very good before swap? I will also need to get a code checker to run them but I plan to.

[Alex L]

I will also need to get a code checker to run them but I plan to.

you can run codes by hand via a noid lite / multimeter and a piece of wire.

see http://www.svoca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15787

I went to set timing and the cam pointer on the back timing cover was broken/mssing so I used the string method

so you set the cam timing up with the string method. how did you go about setting ign timing? if you're missing the pointer, setting to 10deg with the spout out can be done by sighting the timing light across the top edge of the aux gear retaining bolt to the center of the crank retaining bolt. (thanks rob!) its not perfect, but it will get you in the ballpark.

i ended up playing with the dizzy clocking for a good 5 minutes trying to get a good idle when i fired my engine the first time.

[spe926]

you can run codes by hand via a noid lite / multimeter and a piece of wire.

see http://www.svoca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15787



so you set the cam timing up with the string method. how did you go about setting ign timing? if you're missing the pointer, setting to 10deg with the spout out can be done by sighting the timing light across the top edge of the aux gear retaining bolt to the center of the crank retaining bolt. (thanks rob!) its not perfect, but it will get you in the ballpark.

i ended up playing with the dizzy clocking for a good 5 minutes trying to get a good idle when i fired my engine the first time.

Wait what? you lost me

[Alex L]

Wait what? you lost me

on which part? reading codes? setting the cam timing? or setting the ignition timing?

[spe926]

so you set the cam timing up with the string method. how did you go about setting ign timing? if you're missing the pointer, setting to 10deg with the spout out can be done by sighting the timing light across the top edge of the aux gear retaining bolt to the center of the crank retaining bolt. (thanks rob!) its not perfect, but it will get you in the ballpark.


That part

[NavySVO]

He means.....if you want to set the ignition timing without a scale of the timing marks, say, on the timing cover (like you don't have one or if it is missing the marks), you can reference the vantage point of where the Aux sprocket bolt is, and adjust the timing (using the timing light) mark even with the Aux sprocket bolt head as a close reference to 10* BTDC (SPOUT disconnected) as a ballpark adjustment.

With this said, you have to have the car running first to adjust the ignition timing in this fashion.........or any other with a timing gun.

Does the car have spark and fuel? One simple way to see if the plug wires are getting a signal to the plug is to hook up a timing light and turn the car over. The light should still flash if the spark is being delivered through the wire.

As for the TPS recommendation I gave, I understood you to have replacing the intake with another. It can't hurt to check it nonetheless.

Also, turn the engine over until the Nr 1 plug is at TDC, and see if the distr. rotor is between 1 and 2 plug wire terminal.

[spe926]

I have the marks for the crank but not the marks for the cam pulley. I haven't check spark with a light but I will try that. My fp guage shows that I am getting fuel pressure and the injectors are newly cleaned and flowed so i am pretty sure i am getting fuel, i will try tps but don't think that is it,

[Alex L]

thanks navy for that explanation. i was going to post a pic, but ya covered it.

I have the marks for the crank but not the marks for the cam pulley. I haven't check spark with a light but I will try that. My fp guage shows that I am getting fuel pressure and the injectors are newly cleaned and flowed so i am pretty sure i am getting fuel, i will try tps but don't think that is it,

there are no marks for the cam pully AFAIK, the string method is the normal way to go about it, like you did.

what fuel pressure you running?

[NavySVO]

there are no marks for the cam pully AFAIK,

You will have the little piece that is intregral to the inner timing cover........if all is intact

http://www.svoca.com/forum/showpost.php?p=78303&postcount=30

[Alex L]

You will have the little piece that is intregral to the inner timing cover........if all is intact
http://www.svoca.com/forum/showpost....3&postcount=30

oh bloody... teach me to pipe up about something that hasnt been on my car for 2 years.