A/C question.

[Raven855]

the compressor will fail with R134.

What you will find is that the head pressures will be higher with the R134A. I always thought the system was marginal with the stock system especially in hot and humid places like Texas. If you haven't changed the condensor along with the freon change over they will be higher still. The condensor is usually 10-15% larger to make up for the differences in cooling capabilities. As far as the seals, it's always a good thing to change them out. You don't know what kind of oil or what kind of shape the freon was in(could have been contaminated), might cause problems with the new stuff you put in. The seals are cheap and easy to put in. It's a good idea to change out the dryer too.

[blitzkraig]

I changed mine over to R-134a early this spring. It's been working great, blowing just under 40*F, but it's only been in the mid 90s here so far. I changed all of the o-rings, garter springs, flushed the old oil out and replaced with castor, and replaced the fixed oriface tube with a varible oriface kit from NAPA. This kit is supposed to help with the different pressures of the R-134a. I also added an additional fan on the front of the condenser. It's a 12" Torqueflo I got at Autozoo. With the refrigerant, oil, oriface kit, o-rings, springs, fan, and other misc. stuff like a relay, wiring, belt, weatherstrip (installed between the cond and rad) etc, I probably had about $200.00 in it. I wanted to replace the accumulator, but I couldn't find one that would fit. The aftermarket ones wouldn't route the suction hose around my TC IC. The high side pressure ran about 250psi and the low side was around 22-25psi. The stock fan and the condenser fan both run with the a/c on. So far, so good, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

[BrianO]

good info, thanks. I'll look into replacing all the seals while my system is discharged. hopefully it will still work. I've also seen the compressors on ebay and rock auto, new ones.

[SVOeric]

like boosted said, you can't change the compressor seal, and that's the one that will go; ask me how I know

[BrianO]

dumb question... as I mentioned mine says it was retrofitted fro 134a in 2003..but it's been bone dry for at least 2 years. I have 2 cases of R12 that I kept for my 91.... do you think it would be ok to just put R12 back in it since I've got it here? I'd rather not test the system by putting in something of higher pressure with the risk of blowing something and costing me more $$$

[Raven855]

The system will need to be flushed, the oil changed out(its incompatible with the r12) and the dryer should be changed. You should be good to go!

[BrianO]

a complete system is like $700... no way I can get that much for this R12.. I counted and I have 13 cans of it. I'll see what I can do.

thanks

[FOX4EVER]

Fast & Cheap

My 85 9L got out of the paint shop today. When I bought the car last month the A/C would not blow cold. I checked around with some buddies and one told me how he solved his problem. He had a mustang with R-12. It had a small leak. when the car sat for a long period. Like over the winter, it would be low on freon. He bought a product called Enviro - Ease ($4.00/can). I went and bought 2 cans and installed in my SVO. It worked great. A/C was cooling down to 50 degrees sitting in the shop. Blows ice cold going down the road. I'm so happy!!!

[BrianO]

thanks, I read your post on this in the other section.

I found out more info. the PO stopped by tonight to chat and I asked him about the A/C..he said it did work while he had it, but the blower motor didn't work right. I fixed that when I did the heater core so my A/C system may in fact work just fine and still be charged..I had no idea. I'm going to get a belt tomorrow and see what happens. Since it's worked recently with 134a I'll have to stick with that and sell the R12.

[under pressure]

Run 20% less R134a than the system called for R-12.

[BrianO]

I'm about to go play with it so hopefully it has some still in it, thanks

[BrianO]

Whatever way you decide to go, make sure you have the mechanics put on some line locks so it doesn't pop off under pressure puke all that expensive refrigerant on the ground.

where can one get some of these line locks?? I see a metal one on my 5.0 fuel rail if that is what you're talking about. the parts store had no idea what I was talking about.

[8T6 SVO]

I just had to post this. So don't shoot me.

I drove my SVO about 70 miles around town today. 100* temps. My Hose Wizard Serpentine belt A/C system that I bought from Motion Dynamics kicks more that just A$$, It's downright freezing in my car. No belt squealing, LOTS of cold air. Definitely worth it - worry free.

So Brian, if you have problems with your stock A/C - talk to Jim Whelan.

[Otto Man]

I had this exact same decision to make last year. AC failed (most likely during heater core replacement previous year) but was not able to establish date (Autumn core fix, Spring AC doesn't work) so who was at fault.
Found NOS compressor, took to Ford dealer/shop right down the road (1 mile). They asked which "gas" I preferred. I did not realize I had a choice. We discussed everything (cost, enviroment, durability, etc.) and I bit the bullet and stayed with R12. That stuff is EXPENSIVE. It was their recommendation too.
Works like a champ.
I'm happy, except for this stupid arm.

[BrianO]

I just had to post this. So don't shoot me.

I drove my SVO about 70 miles around town today. 100* temps. My Hose Wizard Serpentine belt A/C system that I bought from Motion Dynamics kicks more that just A$$, It's downright freezing in my car. No belt squealing, LOTS of cold air. Definitely worth it - worry free.

So Brian, if you have problems with your stock A/C - talk to Jim Whelan.

that kit is a bit expensive for me. if all fails I'll find another compressor and start over. wednesday I'll find out if it will take some refrigerant or not.

I tried replacing the o-rings, but could only get one line off.