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So i will be removing the turbo to replace the turbo to manifold gasket. I know people recomend that the manifold and turbo come off as one piece. what is the best way to remove the manifold? I also saw that the turbo studs should be replaced is this true, and should any othere studs or bolts be replaced?
Thanks
JP
soaking the egr tube where it goes into the manifold with penatrating oil overnight might make life easier for ya. Other than that it's pretty much a matter of just digging the turbo out.
If your turbo oil feed line is still supported by the manifold bolt, then you will need to soak that as well. Be prepared to replace as normally you will twist the oil line in a knot trying to get the manifold bolt loose.
Flush your coolant with water first, several times to get all of the anti-freeze out of the system. It makes for a nasty mess when removing the coolant lines under the turbo.
Mike S
'86 SVO 9L Leather
'86 SVO 9L Road Warrior
'96 300ZXTT
I need help. I need all the tricks and tips to remove the turbo and the manifold.
Tricks-Tips
You may have to use a junk screwdriver and hammer the flats of the nuts (a 1/8 turn to get an open end on the nuts) up top at the turbo flange.
You may need to take the water fitting out to give more access
When working on the rear manifold stud use care as the oil pipe locating metal sometimes freezes to the stud and turning it too hard will kink the line ($75 mistake)
Use a tighten/loosen technique on the manifold studs-to keep from snapping them off. (can take a pipe on breaker bar to loosen-sometimes) HEAT??
If you brake a manifold bolt HELP section for GM parts are $4.29 (Ford price is $28.12)
DON'T use heater hose on the turbo.
DO buy a oil drain gasket if you remove it
When it is all apart check for cracks in the manifold! (You will hate having to do this again-but you will be faster next time)
Since the collant hose which runs from the pipe to turbo (large fitting on the turbo) is right next to the manifold, what kind of hose would be the best to replace the old one? Use regular heater hose + high heat tape, or something else?
I've got some extra coolant hose. I use some high temp stuff I "found" at work. I'll check and see if there's enough left to do both connection hoses on the turbo.
PM me an address, and I'll send some out to you if there is.
It's metal reinforced, so you'll need a hack saw or cut-off wheel to cut off what you need.
It's about indestructable.
I had to replace my gasket when I got my car home after I purchased it and drove it back from Vancouver, B.C.(600+ miles). I removed the intercooler, brackets and hoses, removed the nuts and had a pita of a time with it. Bought a new gasket and had to pry the turbo away from the motor and vice versa to get enough clearance to install the gasket, had studs on the mainfold. I did all this with the car in the driveway AND NOT on jackstands or lifted. I'm not saying that this is the PROPER way to do it, I'm just saying that this worked for me. I have put 15000 miles on the car since and have not had an issue with the gasket. Just a little info for you, Jason
P.S. my turbo is not water cooled, only oil cooled and NO idea what the turbo is from, got the original turbo with the car as well.
JP- replacing studs is a good insurance. They get rusty and brittle just like anything else, especially in high heat (and flex) environment. Had a friend who took that chance, and snapped the studs.
boardmaster, that turbo's probably off a TurboCoupe. I bought E6 manifold and turbo from the junk yard, because I got a good deal on it, and I was hoping I could swap WG actuators (since mine is shot). I don't think that TC turbo is watercooled (at least it's missing the big coolant fitting in the center section, on the manifold side), and the bolts which hold the WG actuator bracket are much smaller than the SVO (bolt pattern is different also). I'm not sure what the difference is between the SVO and TC turbos... TC turbo should have "Warner-Ishi" cast on the compressor, if the memory serves right.
My turbo is a 6 bolt flange that bolts up to the 3 inch "custom" downpipe on my car instead of the normal 5 bolt flange. I asked Mr. Fleming and he said it is most likely from some other make of vehicule.
BTW, thanks for the avatar comment, I like it alot to.
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