SS line kit banjo bolt block issue?!?

[svono50]

I put my car up on stands today and started tearing into things. Ran across an issue with the banjo bolt block on the Earl's SS lines. The distance from the end to the hole for the banjo bolt is too large to let the banjo block sit into the caliper seat (see pictures).

The distance from the side to the hole is 0.179", while to the end it is 0.250" for a delta of ~0.070". I measured the stock line banjo bolt block and it is 0.179" to the end. The SS line block does fit if I turn it 90 deg, but then the line orientation is way off.

Has anyone else who installed these lines had the same issue? If you did, what did you do to solve it?

I am thinking of taking them into work and having the 0.070" milled off the end to get them to fit, since I can't see it compromising the integrity of the block any.

[roberto2000]

I think your solution will be perfect

[SVOeric]

these lines are made that way, so you have to turn them. not sure why, but I've seen the same problem before.
I think they use the same hose for multiple applications, and some of them have to be turned.

[Pat_in_L.A.]

I think your solution will be perfect

Almost perfect.

Just don't use the same tooling as used on the BBQ that you're giving away at the Reunion!

Arrghhh, Yechht, Patooieee!

[svono50]

Hmmm, something about that orientation/line routing just doesn't seem right to me. Why would they have you run the hose out 90 deg from the factory position and not mention it in their instructions?? Heck, they have (2) fairly detailed addendums for the Mustang and rear disk specifics.

In any case, I am going to have the end machined slightly to run the hose in the same orientation as the factory piece for my own peace of mind. Thanx for the input.

[lug_nutz]

Yep, they mount kinda weird with a twist in the hose. No machining required. The banjo fitting should mount with the hose pointing straight away from the rear of the caliper. Perhaps some pics will help??

x2

Peace of mind? There is no relative motion between the caliper and the axle tube, once the SS line is routed it just sits there. The radii aren't extreme. I've got 10,000 street miles and 500+ track miles on mine, no issues.

[svono50]

Very true, it isn't the size of the motion that worries me it is the number of cycles of the small movement. I don't doubt that folks won't have an issue with turning the orientation of the line 90 degrees, I would rather keep the factory orientation, just to piggyback on their design intent and factor or safety that should have been put into the system.

[svono50]

I never stated that safety was the top priority of the line routing, trust me I didn't even consider it being #1. If auto manufacturers could eliminate brakes to save a $$, then they would.

Having worked in manufacturing for the past 12 years, I am well aware of the battle between myself (Manufacturing/Process Engineering) and the designers for cost, functionality, assembly and servicability. It is always an adventure.

[lug_nutz]

Very true, it isn't the size of the motion that worries me it is the number of cycles of the small movement. I don't doubt that folks won't have an issue with turning the orientation of the line 90 degrees, I would rather keep the factory orientation, just to piggyback on their design intent and factor or safety that should have been put into the system.

Just be sure to mock it up in the vehicle before you get out the mill. It's possible that with the Earl's line being a different length, routing it in the factory fashion could create a tighter or more awkward bend. The corkscrew in Mike's picture (same as my routing) is actually great for easily absorbing all fore/aft, l/r, up/down movement that it might see from motion of the caliper...

[bendutro]

Are Earl's the best choice for the SVO?

Does an SVOCA vendor carry any others?

[svono50]

Just be sure to mock it up in the vehicle before you get out the mill. It's possible that with the Earl's line being a different length, routing it in the factory fashion could create a tighter or more awkward bend. The corkscrew in Mike's picture (same as my routing) is actually great for easily absorbing all fore/aft, l/r, up/down movement that it might see from motion of the caliper...

Thanx for the thought, I already did that. The Earl's line is ~1/2" longer and will route like the factory one just fine. I dropped off the lines with my T&D folks for a little 'government' work when they get some spare time.

[svono50]

Alright, just noticed a potetial issue with one of my new painted rear calipers. I put the parking brake arm onto my left-hand caliper and noticed that the lever shaft is quite loose (i.e.- wobbles quite a bit). After looking over Mike's article, is this something that is normal before the unit is filled with fluid and has pressure against it from the pad/rotor??

The reason for my concern is that the right-hand caliper seems to be nice and firm with very little movement. TIA.

[svono50]

Mike...Pat, any input on the wobbly PB lever?

[svono50]

Need more input. Referring to the article for naming conventions - what's "wobbly"? Is the "Parking Brake Operating Shaft" loose in the bore (radial play)? Or is the end play of that shaft excessive? Is the "Parking Brake End Retainer" nut tight (it goes to ~90 Ft-Lbs so it won't move with your hand unless you are faster tahn a speeding bullet and can stop a locomotive train with one hand)? Is the spline of the parking brake Actuating Lever loose to the spline of the Operating Shaft spline?

Tell us more.

Ahh, you just had to go and get technical on me, didn't ya! I can handle that, at least that what that dimploma thing on my wall was for or something.

Let's start with the questions:

1) The Acutating Lever fit over the splines on the Operating Shaft are a nice tight fit, no slop there.

2) The Actuating Lever mounting bolt is also installed to the proper torque.

3) I haven't checked the tightness of the End Retainer.

4) The Parking Brake Operating Shaft has a lot of 'radial' and 'axial' play as compared to the 'old' units and other rebuilt unit. The other rebuilt unit has a small amount of radial play, but no axial play. This is one of the sources of my concern.

I will check the end retainer tonight as well as try and load the piston to see if it acts like the other rebuilt unit.

One other note, why do they insist on calling the fastener that holds the actuating lever onto the parking brake operating shaft a "bolt" and not a "screw"?? This is just one of my pet-peves (sp?) here at work. Per a published definition; "A bolt is an externally threaded fastener designed for insertion through holes in assembld parts and is normally intended to be tightened or released by torquing a nut." and "A screw is an externally threaded fastener designed for insertion through holes in assembld parts, of mating with a preformed internal thread or forming its own tread and of being tightened or relased by torquing the head." Therefore, the fastener in question should be called a 'screw'. Enough with the soapbox for now.

[Pat_in_L.A.]

One other note, why do they insist on calling the fastener that holds the actuating lever onto the parking brake operating shaft a "bolt" and not a "screw"?? This is just one of my pet-peves (sp?) here at work.

Don't go changing the course of an American icon. Do you realize what adverse effect this would have on my favorite Jimmy Buffett song?

---------------------------------------------

I really do appreciate the fact you're sittin' here
Your voice sounds so wonderful
But yer face don't look too clear
So bar maid bring a pitcher, another round o' brew
Honey, why don't we get drunk and BOLT.

-- Spoken: "Pick it Coral Reefers, here we go..."

(swing instrumental)

Chorus:
Why don't we get drunk and BOLT
I just bought a water bed, it's filled up for me and you
They say you are a snuff queen
Honey I don't think that's true
So, why don't we get drunk and BOLT.