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SS line kit banjo bolt block issue?!?

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  • #31
    I guess I should give the update I mentioned a while ago. I did finish up my brakes and have now road tested and bedded in the pads. They work wonderful so far (~50 miles of use). The Stillen pads pull the car down with good confidence and easy pedal modulation. It also looks like I screwed everything together nice and tight as well as bleed all the air out. Gotta love those little hand vacuum pump kits.

    Here are some pics of my rears and the SS line routing with the fitting mod I had done:
    Attached Files
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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    • #32
      Some additional pics.
      Attached Files
      Ted
      86 SVO Mustang
      17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

      Comment


      • #33
        Guess I should look at my technical documentation some time, eh? I reinstalled them in the positions they were in, silly me to think they were in the right place! I was planning on 'burping' the brake lines to make sure I didn't miss any air, I will swap the clips around then. Thanx, Mike!
        Ted
        86 SVO Mustang
        17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

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        • #34
          Hopefully I won't have to tap. My 30 or so road miles hopefully have migrated any bubbles near the bleeder screws.
          Ted
          86 SVO Mustang
          17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by MikeFleming
            <snip> Once the air is out, changing fluid is easier.
            I will agree with that. My bleeding process on the first rear caliper was painfully slow and my hand vacuum pump was almost substituted for my power vacuum pump that I used for A/C systems. The second caliper was much easier to bleed though.
            Ted
            86 SVO Mustang
            17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by MikeFleming
              Very nice work - but you're not done just yet.

              Looking at pic #4 above in post #39, the anti-rattle spring is on the top and should be on the bottom. Brake loading forces the pad forward, in the direction of rotation, and needs to push the pad against the support frame to absorb the braking loads [into the axle housing] - not to compress the spring. The job of the anti-rattle spring is to push the free side of the pad backing plate against the loading bracket. Easy way to remember is it goes opposite the bleeder screw for rearward-mounted calipers.

              See attached drawing and pic (my apologies for all the red).
              Mike,

              Is the dust shield and bracket painted or powdercoated?
              1986 1D - An oil return and rear end away from FINALLY being fully streetable again!
              2007 Mazda3 2.3L 5 Speed hatch

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              • #37
                on the screw vs bolt issue it just wouldn't sound right to tell someone to "go bolt themself"
                Growing OLD is mandatory,Growing UP is optional

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