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Ok let me just say this because i can tell theres some confusion as i was reading this thread:
The EEC (Electronic Engine Control), ECM (Electronic Control Module), PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and ECU (Electronic Control Unit) are all the same friggin thing on our SVOs, its the mini computer thats in the pass. side kick panel. PK, PJ, PE, LA3 are the different versions of them depending on year and model (SVO, T-Bird, Merkur), youll hear these phrases on this board a lot.
On my early 85 SVO and i think its the same for all SVOs, the sensor on the lower intake manifold between #2 and #3 cyls. is the coolant temp sensor (aka Cooland Temp Sensor CTS, Engine Coolant Temp ECT) and is what sends the water temp info of the engine to the EEC, ECM, PCM, ECU, whatever you wanna call it. However for some strange reason (maybe technology was not that good yet), FORD decided that there had to be yet another sensor to actually activate the radiator cooling fan (FORD named this the cooling fan switch) whereas now a days the smarter CTS will do both these jobs without all the extra sensors. The cooling fan switch is a sensor with a single wire hooked up to it and it is on the lower intake manifold underneath. It (cooling fan switch) too is exposed to cooland in the intake and even though its a sensor, all it does is sense when the coolant has reached the temp that the sensor was designed to "switch" at, i think its like 250 degrees right? This sensor is attatched to the intake (that by the way is grounded electrically) and only has a SINGLE wire hooked up to it. Its MAIN purpose is to when engine is too hot, will switch and complete the path to ground through the block and kick on the fan. Thats all it does, no connection to the EEC whatsoever, it is its own circuit.
So to answer your question, its the one on the left for sure, the skinny screw type nipple is that the singe connector hooks to. These however rarely go bad, i wonder why you are wanting to change this? Does your fan not come on anymore? If so, i bet more than anything it isn't this, its the cooling fan relay (little black box with a big brown connector thats located under the dash almost exaclty by the hood release handle. These tend to go bad once your fan gets old and starts pulling too much amperage through it. This is what isn't available from FORD anymore but i beleiver SVPU sells them and are adjustable too? Its what i heard.
Check this out, easy way to test your whole cooling fan circuit: On the cooling fan switch pull off the single wire connector thats hooked to it. Stick a semi long wire about 16 gauge thick at least into the connector. Then with the Key on, engine off or running (prefferably off so its quiet) touch the other end of the wire to the battery Neg. post. This is exaclty what the cooling fan switch does when it gets too hot. If all work right, the fan should come on. If not, maybe your relay is bad even if you hear it click. This by the way, is the best way for hooking a manual switch to turn on your fan.
To hook up a manual fan switch and still retain factory fan turn on times put a wire to a known good ground under your dash or wherever. Hook the other end to a switch. Then from the switch hook a wire to the cooling fan single wire connector and then re-attatch it to the stock cooling fan switch. This little circuit is low current and you can use a small switch and 16 gauge wire.
Whew, sorry for the long post, let me know if any one is still confused.
The EEC (Electronic Engine Control), ECM (Electronic Control Module), PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and ECU (Electronic Control Unit) are all the same friggin thing on our SVOs, its the mini computer thats in the pass. side kick panel. PK, PJ, PE, LA3 are the different versions of them depending on year and model (SVO, T-Bird, Merkur), youll hear these phrases on this board a lot.
On my early 85 SVO and i think its the same for all SVOs, the sensor on the lower intake manifold between #2 and #3 cyls. is the coolant temp sensor (aka Cooland Temp Sensor CTS, Engine Coolant Temp ECT) and is what sends the water temp info of the engine to the EEC, ECM, PCM, ECU, whatever you wanna call it. However for some strange reason (maybe technology was not that good yet), FORD decided that there had to be yet another sensor to actually activate the radiator cooling fan (FORD named this the cooling fan switch) whereas now a days the smarter CTS will do both these jobs without all the extra sensors. The cooling fan switch is a sensor with a single wire hooked up to it and it is on the lower intake manifold underneath. It (cooling fan switch) too is exposed to cooland in the intake and even though its a sensor, all it does is sense when the coolant has reached the temp that the sensor was designed to "switch" at, i think its like 250 degrees right? This sensor is attatched to the intake (that by the way is grounded electrically) and only has a SINGLE wire hooked up to it. Its MAIN purpose is to when engine is too hot, will switch and complete the path to ground through the block and kick on the fan. Thats all it does, no connection to the EEC whatsoever, it is its own circuit.
So to answer your question, its the one on the left for sure, the skinny screw type nipple is that the singe connector hooks to. These however rarely go bad, i wonder why you are wanting to change this? Does your fan not come on anymore? If so, i bet more than anything it isn't this, its the cooling fan relay (little black box with a big brown connector thats located under the dash almost exaclty by the hood release handle. These tend to go bad once your fan gets old and starts pulling too much amperage through it. This is what isn't available from FORD anymore but i beleiver SVPU sells them and are adjustable too? Its what i heard.
Check this out, easy way to test your whole cooling fan circuit: On the cooling fan switch pull off the single wire connector thats hooked to it. Stick a semi long wire about 16 gauge thick at least into the connector. Then with the Key on, engine off or running (prefferably off so its quiet) touch the other end of the wire to the battery Neg. post. This is exaclty what the cooling fan switch does when it gets too hot. If all work right, the fan should come on. If not, maybe your relay is bad even if you hear it click. This by the way, is the best way for hooking a manual switch to turn on your fan.
To hook up a manual fan switch and still retain factory fan turn on times put a wire to a known good ground under your dash or wherever. Hook the other end to a switch. Then from the switch hook a wire to the cooling fan single wire connector and then re-attatch it to the stock cooling fan switch. This little circuit is low current and you can use a small switch and 16 gauge wire.
Whew, sorry for the long post, let me know if any one is still confused.
, ugh!!! J/k guys.
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