According to the description the block is designed to work for a turbo application, but I'm just afraid of what I've read about those pistons. I'll find out soon enough though. As for the warranty, I'll be sure to inspect it good and close to make sure they don't get me on some bs saying that I'm supposed to keep it at 6psi. I'll keep posted on the process and how it all turns out. Thanks again for all the help.
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We have installed several Jasper regular type engines with very good luck. We did get pressed once and got a 2.3 turbo short block from them. It did come with the correct pistons, but there was a cracked ear on the back of the block, so it had to go back. They picked it up and corrected the problem with a different block, but there went the time saving.
JimJim Whelan
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little news about their warranty process as well on turbo applications. If it does break, you have to have it inspected and pulled by the person who put the engine in. Then they have to send the engine to Jasper for them to evaluate the problem. In the mean time, there is no engine in your car. If you want they car to run, you have to buy another Jasper engine to replace the one they took out, core charge and all. In 2-3 months, assuming they find that the first broken engine is not your fault but theirs, they reimburse you. But in the mean time, you have bought two engines and only have one working.
Return the engine, eat the freight charge, buy one from a professional company that makes a correct engine for these cars, not a company that specializes in stock "low price" reman replacements.
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? Well that doesn't sound good...
Unfortunately I currently have little control over the situation since I'm just a college kid trying to squeeze out what little money I have. From what I've found about the reman engine it's reliabe to an extent. It is the correct engine, there just seems to be some controversy over those hyper pistons and such. But if the more extreme warnings turn out to be true I can legitimately say "I told you so" and maybe earn a little more influence in the decistion making next time. For now it's just a waiting game to see how well it holds up.Accountants are hardcore
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If its that much hassle, I agree wholeheartedly. You're replacing an engine for a high performance car, not my POS Ranger. Spend the money and get it done right the first time.Originally posted by aaronlake View PostReturn the engine, eat the freight charge, buy one from a professional company that makes a correct engine for these cars, not a company that specializes in stock "low price" reman replacements.1986 1D - An oil return and rear end away from FINALLY being fully streetable again!
2007 Mazda3 2.3L 5 Speed hatch
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I wish you all the luck in the world. I really do. I just replaced a customers 5.4 in his f250 with a motorcraft unit because the last 2 Jasper engines failed. He had 8000 in the two jaspers, 5000 in the motorcraft, and 4500 in labor all on a credit card. I gave him his core credit back when he returned the old engine, and if it breaks, he gets another one for the next 75K miles, no questions asked, no more money. God, I hope this works out for you, if it does, I will be happy to eat my crow.
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God I hope it works out too. I don't drive it very often, so if it can at least last a year or so I'll look into getting it rebuilt with better parts. Worst case scenario, it blows up and I have to let it sit while the motor is inspected and replaced, after which I have the replacement immediately machined and built to quality specs. Absolute worst case scenario, it blows up and they try to blame it on me. I don't have a game plan for that just yet.Accountants are hardcore
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Your dad is paying for all this? You need to tell him in no uncertain terms that he's wasting his money and your time and Jasper is not an acceptable option here. Either that or you should pay for it yourself, in which case you can do whatever you want. This engine is going to be a ticking time bomb and you will put piston pieces through something that'll cost even more money, and it's gonna suck. Do it right the first time or just hold off until you can.-- Brian
'86 1C Comp Prep SVO - stockish - 15.92 @ 89 mph, 2.6 60'
'92 Mustang LX - 2.3T, '04 GT brakes, Bullitts, Bilstein/Eibach - RIP
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The new engine is now in and running. So far so good, meaning I've never noticed how firm the seat can be. The only problem I noticed on my 10 minute drive home was that it would get a little too hot for comfort when sitting and the idle was iffy, but those are probably sensor related issues. I'm still concerned about those hypercracker pistons so I'll be extra cautious to avoid detonation. Enjoy the pics.Accountants are hardcore
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Do you know for sure it came with DISHED hyperyoucrackedit pistons?
I had a rebuilt motor in my car when i got it. it always ran a little too warm and would ping at anything over 10 psi boost. come to find out the pistons were flat top 9.5/1 compression, instead of dished 8/1 compression.
the HYper......pistons will last as long as you don't get to crazy in the quest for power and always run good gas.
I pulled the Hyper's out of my engine and looked them over. even my engine builder was surprised that they weren't cracked. i ran 20 psi on them for about 3 months, had detonation i just backed the timing off and dealt with it.
Hopefully you have atleast the DISHED pistons. On a side note Summit has .030 forged dished pistons (trw's) for 50.00 a hole.
How much was this engine if you mind me asking.
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