Great instructions, thanks!! I assume the Niehoff part number is for the tool. You guys must be the folks bidding against me on those dealer 2.3 tool sets!!
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Cam Synchronizer
Collapse
X
-
The tool comes with the sensor, and the side play is sloppy, but once you install it in the block which locates the bottom, it is not bad, when I went to the E$$linger aux shaft and dist gear I pulled it apart and checked for wear, it was worn on the side of the shaft on the heavy side of the hall effect tooth (or 1/2 moon side) but being a hall effect sensor it only has to signal the Haltech within a 75 degree window that TDC #1 is comming, so it can be erratic without any negative effect, but the reality is a Ford quality sensor is no longer available, junkyard searching for a one year one model part is pretty funny, so I opted for the Chinese cheap crap sensor, so far it has exceeded my expectations.
As a note, do trash the gear that comes on it, replace it with anything made in America, and be carefull the hall effect ring is delicate and does not take well to having the gear removed and installed.
Just my 2 cents
Comment
-
arnt these on all ranger / bronco dual plug motors from 92~96? i just picked up a DP 2.3 out of a 93 bronco, and it was equipped with said sensor. picked it up for the main reason of switching to a small journal, EDIS and crank trigger on the svo. i know there was a revision after the dizzy style cam sensor, were it was mounted behind the aux gear boss. (which doesnt work on our blocks)Originally posted by fitzmotor View Postbut the reality is a Ford quality sensor is no longer available, junkyard searching for a one year one model part is pretty funny, so I opted for the Chinese cheap crap sensor, so far it has exceeded my expectations.redneck engineered 84 2a, stock 84 1D.
Comment
-
I got mine from Joe Morgan,the connector,pins,sensor,and the metal drive part,all from ford.Hes runs one and said they work fine,but that oil finds it way into the sensor and he had to replace one or two....once mine is running,I'm buying a few extra sensors.
Tim86 svo
Comment
-
Ask and you shall receive! I have a handle on the pigtails!!!!!!! While browsing through a Standard Automotive Catalog I noticed a pigtail that looked exactly like the one I needed for the Cam sensor. The catalog says it fits some ford Mass airflow sensors. The Standard part# is S658. If you want to see a picture just plug in the part number here http://www.standardbrand.com/web_app...mp_bgbulk.aspx. If I never looked in that catalog I think I would still be looking for that sucker.
I also bought the Dorman sensor part number 689108.
Have fun!Last edited by s8v4ovic; 04-04-2008, 05:24 PM.
Comment
-
ok, I'm still a bit confused.Originally posted by fastmonkeywheels View PostI have one that I'm going to eventually use with MS for COP.
SVOeric, you need BOTH a cam and a crank sensor for COP/Seq Fuel.
I know you want to run sequential fuel, and spark;
but why can't that be run off the cam or crank triggers specifically ones that have multiple teeth ?
FYI -- on the year Rangers you are looking for
CPS (Cam Position Sensor) was added starting in 1995 (1994 in California). At this time Ford changed to a 104-pin computer (it was a 60-pin) and moved the DIS functions into the computer, previously the DIS system had a TFI module as a separate unit mounted on the front of the intake manifold.Eric C
SVOCA Webmaster
Comment
-
I thought that MS only could do seq ignition and not seq fuel, but I may be wrong.Originally posted by SVOeric View Postok, I'm still a bit confused.
I know you want to run sequential fuel, and spark;
but why can't that be run off the cam or crank triggers specifically ones that have multiple teeth ?
FYI -- on the year Rangers you are looking for
[LEFT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Verdana][SIZE=2]
As for your question. You can run the the degree wheels for the crank and cam. Doing it for the cam though is way overkill and harder to fab up than just installing the camshaft position sensor/plug. The cam sensor only lets the ECU know when it's the number one is coming up for fire. So it only really needs one tooth. Meanwhile the teeth on the crank is way more important as it tells the ECU where the motor is in it's rotation. I hope I worded that correctly.Last edited by s8v4ovic; 04-04-2008, 06:12 PM.
Comment
-
So Fitz: Give me some pointers on using the synchronizer with the Haltech. Please. 4 wires: red, black, black/red, black/blue?
Tim: How is your's wired?
S8v4ovic: Thanks for that find!! I echo what you have to say on the difference in the sensors. I can run waste spark and semi-sequential or batch with just the crank sensor. I need the cam sensor to tell me when I'm coming up to number 1 on the compression stroke. The crank sensor only tells me when I'm coming up to #1 and #4 but not which one is on the compression stroke.
I thinks that right.
BobLast edited by Horsewidower; 04-04-2008, 09:18 PM.
Comment
-
Comment