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  • Cam Synchronizer

    Anyone here ever used a 95 Ranger cam synchronizer? We're going to use one with the racecar in order to go to coil-on-plug and sequential fuel injection. I'd like to hear anyone's experience.

    Thanks

  • #2
    you're just using it for a trigger. I think most people opt for the crank trigger, but either will work.
    Eric C
    SVOCA Webmaster

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    • #3
      I have one that I'm going to eventually use with MS for COP.

      SVOeric, you need BOTH a cam and a crank sensor for COP/Seq Fuel.
      -Ken
      '84 - HE351, MS2-Extra
      PICS

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      • #4
        Eric: We have a crank trigger. It allows us to run waste spark and semi-sequential FI. We are trying to go to individual coil on plug and sequential.

        Mike Fitzwater gave me the Dorman part number and they are for sale at rockauto for ~$48. I guess one year only 1995 on the CA Ranger. Not going to find many of these dudes at the JY.

        Bob

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        • #5
          I just ordered, and recieved, the dorman part for a MS and cops setup. It is a cheap chinese part and I have been trying to figure out just how much side play is tolerable. Setting up end play is no problem of course but the side play in the shaft at the top and bottom bothers me. Until I have specs I will not install it.

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          • #6
            I've heard okay things from the Chinese parts, but you NEED to install a better gear on it. That's the weak part.

            Horsewidower, how much power are you guys making to require seq-fuel? I know it's useful when the crank starts to warp at higher RPM's, that way you can tune each cylinder individually and take it's warpage into account.

            What EMS are you using?
            -Ken
            '84 - HE351, MS2-Extra
            PICS

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            • #7
              What have you heard or experienced with the gear?
              Where did you get a replacement gear?

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              • #8
                Well, we all know that there are issues with the the aux-shaft and dist-gear. It's just safer to put on a known quality gear, especially on something as important as this. I'm pretty sure it's the same gear that the distributors use.
                -Ken
                '84 - HE351, MS2-Extra
                PICS

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                • #9
                  Its a Haltech E11v2.

                  You can get the gears from Esslinger or Race.

                  Bob

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                  • #10
                    I got mine off amazon for about $37 new including shipping and I recieved it in 2 days.

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                    • #11
                      Did it come with a pig-tail? That's the tricky part, getting a connector for it. I will not use spade-connectors for things like that.
                      -Ken
                      '84 - HE351, MS2-Extra
                      PICS

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                      • #12
                        Don't remember if it did or not I'll check later on. It did come with the installation tool though.

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                        • #13
                          I'm so confused. What did you get for $37, the cam synchronizer? What installation tool would you need?

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                          • #14
                            The Niehoff part number is FF428N. Amazon doesn't appear to have anymore.

                            I too am curious as to what kind of tool is required to install it. It should just go right into the old distributor hole.
                            -Ken
                            '84 - HE351, MS2-Extra
                            PICS

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                            • #15
                              Well its really an alignment tool. The service manual states that a "special tool" is required to index the vane inside the synchronizer to the housing. You can line up the synchronizer without a special tool and without a lot of extra time.

                              Heres the procedure for the 95 ranger:

                              1) Bring the engine up to top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke for cylinder No. 1.

                              2) The engine needs to be positioned at 26 degrees after TDC. Mark the balancer by measuring from TDC to 26 degrees before TDC. Take that measurement and make your own mark at 26 degrees after TDC.

                              3) Drop in the synchronizer so that the leading edge of the vane is close to the center of the opening in the housing (this is directly below the actual sensing part of the cam sensor).

                              4) Leaving the synchronizer loose, install the cam sensor and connect a voltmeter from the ground to the dark blue/orange wire with the sensor plugged in.

                              5) With the key on, the voltmeter should read either "0 volts" or "battery voltage."

                              6) Turn the synchronizer back and forth to find the point where the voltage is just switching from "0 volts" to "battery voltage."

                              7) Once you find that point, tighten down the hold-down bolt.


                              Its alot easier with the tool....
                              Last edited by Raven855; 04-01-2008, 06:19 PM. Reason: clarifing

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