what to look for in swaping mainifolds?

[Pro-Hawk]

Originally posted by MikeFleming


I use a 7/8 crowfoot and short series of extensions to get the lower drain tube-to-block fitting loose and leave the drain tube attached to the CHRA/manifold assy. Otherwise you can risk damaging the *unobtainum* drain tube by snaking it through the "V" shave in the brace while lifting the rather heavy manif/turbo assy slowly away.

Then remove the 8 bolts/studs that hold the manif to the head and lift the assy out.

-Mike Fleming
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Ok this is about where I'm at right now Its a sloooowww deal for sure

Anyways when I use the crawl foot it should be able to slide back behind the "Y" brace since I got the motor damp bolts undone?

Also is there a trick to get the IC bracket off? Most of the nuts holding it on are in pretty tight places? Once I get this Off I probly should leave it off and swap in a TC IC

Now on that starter deal, that top bolt on it is a pain do to a tit type deal on the starter can you just grind this thing off lol

Thanks for the help and sorry to have a billion questions.

[NY eric]

now I feel stupid

Originally posted by MikeFleming

I use a 7/8 crowfoot and short series of extensions to get the lower drain tube-to-block fitting loose
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Dont ask how I did it 12 plus times

[Pro-Hawk]

So I can use the stock SVO IC without the bracket? If so I will probly stick it back on without the bracket and worry about the TC IC later on.

So fair I got that one nut for the feed line/mainifold bolt. I'm going to wait tell tomorrow to pick up some swivals to help with the rest besides I need some crawlers also. Once I'm trought I will have a pretty good CraftsMan set I know but I can't see paying for anything better just to turn a wrench here and there. Now I do own a Snap-On Torque Rachet

As for that starter, I got them with a Box 13mm but I wonder if a newer 2.3L starter would be easier to mess with. Heck at the very least it probly weighs less than the stocker

I'll keep ya posted as I slowly move alone but I tell ya as much of a pain as this can be I wonder if I should go ahead and swap heads

Thanks

[Pro-Hawk]

Re: now I feel stupid

Originally posted by NY eric
Dont ask how I did it 12 plus times

12 Times are you Nuts LOL. How do you stay sane after all that

[SVOeric]

up til 2 weeks ago, I ran the stock SVO IC, with the brackets removed

Now I have a TC IC

[Pro-Hawk]

Originally posted by SVOeric
up til 2 weeks ago, I ran the stock SVO IC, with the brackets removed

Now I have a TC IC

What all do you need to do to install the TC IC, just hose couplings and plug the extra vaccum fittings on the TC IC? I got a TC IC just setting here and may be better if I just go straight to it.

[Pro-Hawk]

Originally posted by MikeFleming
Craftsman makes damn fine products and you can get spares and/or replacements evenings and weekends. No need to apologize.

-Mike Fleming
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The best part is I live a mile from Sears so what ever I need they have and they never have a issue when I need to replace a tool. The only shinny tool I got is a 13mm CraftsMan Pro that I used to change a fan belt on my moms 97' Grand Am. It was way to tight for my fat hands and wrenches so I bought that wrench and it worked great lol I wouldn't mind a set of them just because they are a hair longer but I'm not ready to spend that much on wrenches exspecialy since I got two sets. (one is used for back up). My only Snap-Ons I got is a set of pry bars and a Torque rachet thats is 50-200 I believe and I got off ebay at that I really love ebay sometimes.

I think I will hold off on the starter untill I find one pretty cheap I replaced one on my 93' 2.3L and it was like 120.00 I think. If only my J/Ys around didn't sux, they would sell me the starter without the whole motor lol

[Pro-Hawk]

To kill a Enginenear

If I ever see the person(s) responseable for the mainifold, turbo and IC installment on the SVO I will find the nearest tree and a real short rope I mean come on was this motor designed to be removed in order to work on any of it? This swap looks like it was designed to be done out of the car

I got two Of the IC bracket bolts off but the middle one is a pain. Its like you have to pull the turbo to get it off and I promise when I do it will some how find its way in the trash I got a few turns on it with a 15mm socket, 1/2 drive swival and a brake bar. After I turned it a few times it started to slip a little so I', letting it soak somemore in PB Blast. Do you guys think I would help if I heated it up with a small torch?

Now on that dang oil return line...I can get a turn on it with a 7/8 crawler but once I do it bindes the crowler to where I have to turn it back to get it off. Its hard to get a turn when I have to re do that turn to get the crawler lol. I was wondering do you think it would help if I loosned the mainifold bolts(8) so I can get a hair more room at the return line? Are should I risk unbolting the feed line from the turbo and snaking it through the "Y" brace?

[NY eric]

Re: Re: now I feel stupid

Originally posted by Pro-Hawk
12 Times are you Nuts LOL. How do you stay sane after all that

This is called Buying the ATR header and learning the hard way that it just S&^%S,

[Pro-Hawk]

Re: Re: Re: now I feel stupid

Originally posted by NY eric
This is called Buying the ATR header and learning the hard way that it just S&^%S,

Yup, well thats what I hear anyways. The first time that thing cracked after spending that much money I would cry

Progress report lol I finnaly got the IC bracket out, I just cept tighting and loosing the bolt with PB Blaster and it finnaly gave way. I just need the oil return line so I can start undoing the mainifold.

Quick question can you remove the head by just removeing the exhaust bolt and would the "Y" bracket and exhaust pipe be enough to support the mainifold/turbo while you swap heads? I got a ported head etc that I was waiting on drilling a whole in it for the newer intakes but I may drop it in if I have to remove the mainifold to swap heads I can worried about the newer intakes laters when I get mine gutted and ported.

Also could I drill the extra hole in the head for the newer styled intakes and put a counter sunk plug in it and run the head for now with the old inline intakes? That way I want have to remove the head once I get my intakes done?

P.S. This would make a great tech artical some day

[NY eric]

stealing heads

To answere your question the support bracket is more than sturdy to hold everything.
When I go the the JYD I leave the exaust manifold attached to the car but pull the head and intake all at once. I am not about to go crawling through the weeds to deal with that mess. Usually you dont want much of the car after I grab the head. A hamer and cold chisel gets most of the work done in the exaust manifold bolts. I then stand on the turbo to push it away from the head. Then you can get in there to get the oil return line looking straight down.

LOL

[Pro-Hawk]

Well I finnaly got some more time and poped the mainifold off. I found this off brand tool set that had a hollow head rachet that worked great on the tight place studs I found out why I had so much heck on the "Y" bracket, because the studs was turnning and not the nuts Since I gave up on the Oil return to block line I sat under the car while a friend unbolted the mainifold from the head so I could feed the line through the "Y" bracket. when he did I got all the room I needed to finnish undoing the oil return line

The only part I messed up on was unbolting the turbo from the mainifold. I couldn't get the studs off because the nuts where stuck on and no room while the elbow was on. So I unbolted the elbow and broke a bolt in the exhaust houseing. I will drop it off at a friends machine shop tomorrow since I'm to afraid to mess it up more This will give me some time to go ahead and pull my head and start swaping intakes and the head

P.S. Anyone got a fuel rail for a older set of square intakes? Like the fuel rail on a 85.5-86' SVO or 86' TC for sale?

Heres a link to pics of my car(s) I'm updating as I go but haven't unloaded the turbo out of the car yet.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/txsvoray